Scotland, Torridon

Meet Report: 13-21 May 2017.

The Horns of Beinn Alligin
The Horns of Beinn Alligin

Most people arrived at Gerry’s Hostel on Saturday, with two arriving a day later. The venue, which was a late booking after a mix up over the SMC’s Ling hut is situated in Glen Carron, midway between Loch Carron village and Achnasheen. It was surprisingly available when all other accommodation in the area had been booked up for months, although perhaps not so surprising on closer acquaintance. The bedrooms were fine, linen clean if a bit seen into, showers etc rather home constructed and a bit of a work in progress. The kitchen, however did not bear close inspection; apart from being a perfect example of bad design, parts of it like the extractor fan and the tiny oven had surely been declared Sites of Special Scientific Interest. A complete lack of hot water on tap made washing up less than easy. Nevertheless we were comfortable enough and all managed to cook meals without any overt displays of temper.

Relaxing in the sun outside Gerry's Hostel
Relaxing in the sun outside Gerry’s Hostel

Simon Howkins, Gerry’s son and the owner, as idiosyncratic as his hostel, insisted on lighting a huge fire in the living room every evening, adding to the conviviality although one or two of the transient population didn’t seem inclined to join in. The meet was perfectly timed for the end of a long spell of dry weather which simplified the river crossings and delayed the onset of the dreaded midge season.

Sunday: Dry, breezy and mostly sunny.

David drove to Achnasheen and climbed Fionn Bheinn (933m) in the Fannichs, whilst Martyn and Paul did a circuit from the hostel to the north around Meall Bheithe and the Coulin Estate. Mick, who had already been in Scotland for a week continued his collection of Munros with an ascent of Bidein a’Choire Sheasgaich and Lurg Mor, returning the same way over the Corbett of Beinn Tharsuinn. These are two very remote Munros and Mick used a mountain bike to allow the route to be completed in one day.

Lurg Mhor and Bidean a'Choire Sheasgaich from Beinn Tharsuinn
Lurg Mhor and Bidean a’Choire Sheasgaich from Beinn Tharsuinn

Helen, Michael and Richard enjoyed a great day on the traverse of Beinn Alligin in Torridon, finishing over the spectacular but easy Horns.

Monday: Very windy with a forecast of low cloud and heavy rain.

With a poor day in prospect objectives were moderate. After his exertions of the previous few days, Mick decided to visit the NT gardens of Inverewe near Poolewe for a rest day. He was joined by Martyn, Paul and David. Richard, Helen and Michael walked around the Applecross coast, visiting the falls on the River Balgy and the River Toscaig Gorge.They also visited Sheildaig where they found the 2m high Preachers’ Wall, used in the mid- 19th century by the Wee Frees when they were not allowed to build churches following their break from the Church of Scotland.

Flowerdale
Flowerdale

Nick and Tim did a circuit of the picturesquely named Flowerdale Miniatures north of Beinn Alligin. These little hills provided an entertaining and scenic day. The promised rain didn’t appear but the wind on the modest tops (c400m) was at times too strong to stand, vindicating decisions not to go higher.

Tuesday: Very windy, showers.

Mick was joined by Richard and David, who had borrowed bikes from Simon, and Bob Peckham, a member of the CPC (who lives in Inverness and joined us for the walk) for another very long Monar day climbing the remote Munros of Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a’Chaorachain. The wind was very strong on the summits and they were several times in doubt as to the wisdom of continuing. David did turn back part way but the other three struggled on. Paul kept out of the worst of the wind by cycling locally. The rest of the meet attempted Beinn Eighe from Glen Torridon, using a well constructed path which petered out into steep and unpleasantly eroded going to the main ridge not far from the summit of Sail Mhor.

Helen, Michael, Nick and Tim heading for Beinn Eighe
Helen, Michael, Nick and Tim heading for Beinn Eighe

Initially it didn’t seem too bad on the ridge, but the gusts of wind increased to the point that a retreat became the only option a mere 150 yds from the top. A sheltered spot was found below the ridge for lunch, during which a lone walker passed us, took one look at the ridge and beat a hasty retreat. Not sure whether it was the wind or Michael’s attempts to interest him in joining the Club. During the descent ring ouzels were spotted in the corrie. Back at the road Helen volunteered to take the car back whilst the others walked the 10 miles back to the hostel through the Coulin Estate, initially pleasant beside the lochs but then rather marred by bulldozer tracks servicing hydro-electric projects under construction. The first loch, Loch Clair, was the site of the Club’s 1982 Whit camp meet, and Michael’s first visit to Torridon.

Homeward through the Coulin Estate

Wednesday: Wind abating, sun and light showers.

Martyn was suffering from sore knees so had an easy day touring the area and visiting the Rogie Falls on the Blackwater River. Mick set off alone for Maoile Lunndaidh, another remote Munro and his last in this area.

Everyone else drove to Kinlochewe, Paul to do a 12 mile circular walk to the north of the village and the rest to climb Slioch. Paul accompanied us along the lochside on the approach to the mountain, pleasant walking with masses of brilliant yellow gorse spanned by rainbows following the occasional light shower. He then left us as we made the ascent to the spectacular viewpoint of the summit. The actual top, 1m higher than the cairn is 200 metres north, on the edge of a dizzying drop of about 900m to the valley floor. Descent was via the East Ridge and the Top of Sgurr an Tuill Bhain before a very steep and rocky descent regained the upward path. The return along the loch seemed to be longer and more than one person remarked that someone had put a few ups and downs in that hadn’t been there before. Paul arrived back at the car park shortly after, having enjoyed a much rougher walk than he had expected.

Thursday: showers.

Michael, Helen, Mick, Nick and Tim drove the short distance to Achnashellach station and walked up into The Cold Hollow of Fuar Tholl. Splendid walking in dramatic scenery with big crags and much evidence of folding on the steep slopes of Ben Liath Mhor above Corrie Lair. No summits visited but a most enjoyable 10 mile day out.

They had good weather with only one shower, unlike Paul and Martyn who climbed the Corbett of Sgurr na Feartaig from the hostel, encountering heavy downpours and strong winds. David and Richard climbed the Munro Moruisg  and Corbett Sgurr nan Ceannaichean from Glen Carron, experiencing similar weather.

In the evening the plan was to go out for dinner to the Ledgowan Hotel in Achnasheen. Helen had booked and obtained a menu, so the party set out in high anticipation of game pie and other delights only to be thwarted when the road was closed due to a serious accident. The police expected at least a three hour delay so we went down valley to the Lochcarron Hotel, cheap and cheerful pub food (actually not cheap at all but certainly cheerful). Mutterings could still be heard about the loss of the game pie.

Friday: Hot and sunny.

David and Richard departed for home. Martyn toured Skye. Mick and Paul drove towards Ullapool to climb the Munro Am Faochagach (961m). A relatively short day after Mick’s marathons earlier in the week, it left him with 45 Munros to do. Since he was spending another week up in Scotland he will surely be down to the thirties by now. Helen and Michael climbed the impressive sandstone dome of Maol Chean Dearg (933m) via Meall nan Ceapairean whilst Tim and Nick did the circuit of Beinn Alligin in glorious weather with wide ranging views over Skye and the Outer Hebrides and inland to An Teallach beyond the other Torridon giants. Both agreed it was worth the 1000 mile round trip just for that day.

Saturday dawned wet and midgy, so early starts were made for the long drive home. Mick headed off to Braemar SYHA with plans to put his remaining Cairngorm Munros underfoot.

While the Ling hut would have given an idyllic location in the heart of Torridon, Gerry’s gave easier access to the Monar area, while the good road as far as Kinlochewe shortened the repeated drives into Glen Torridon. Another excellent Scottish meet and the first of the year with encouraging weather.

Participants: Mick Borroff (President), Michael Smith, Helen Smith, David Hick, Richard Taylor, Paul Dover, Martyn Trasler, Nick Welch, Tim Josephy and Bob Peckham (G).

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