Cumbria, Duddon Valley

Meet Report: 21-23 April 2017.

High Moss
High Moss

The Duddon Valley, alternatively known as Dunnerdale, has to be one of the most secluded and unspoilt areas of the Lake District National Park. Tucked away in the south-west corner, it is well away from the frequently visited tourist spots of Bowness, Ambleside and Windermere. On a weekend when the weather was truly glorious, the valley and the surrounding vistas were stunningly beautiful, dominated by the Scafell sister peaks to the north-west and Coniston Old Man to the north-east.

In the vicinity of Turner Hall Farm was our accommodation for the weekend, High Moss, a hut run by the Rucksack Club, located about a mile away from the Newfield Inn in the nearby village of Seathwaite, which provided a good rendezvous point for members after completing their various treks.

On Friday afternoon before the weather improved, several members took advantage to get in an extra walk either in Dunnerdale or en route to the meet. Dotti Heaton, Bill Gibbs and Paul Dover teamed up and walked the area around Seathwaite reservoir. Christine and Jim Harrison explored the Seathwaite area and the woods below High Wallowbarrow before rain intervened and they retired to the aforementioned pub for a coffee or maybe something a bit stronger! One excellent feature over the whole weekend was that the Inn’s garden contained a tree with a bird feeder that attracted a wide variety of birds. In a short space of time, chaffinches, blue tits, great tits, coal tits, siskins and two greater-spotted woodpeckers were spotted.

Mick Borroff, John Sutcliffe and Roger Horn stopped off in Arnside and Silverdale and had a 12 mile low level hike, that included Arnside Knott and several areas of ancient woodland that were coming into bloom with many varieties of wild flower (orchids, welsh poppies, cowslips, ramsons and violets to name but a few – ably identified by Mick) and a mid-point stopover for some liquid refreshment. Strong sea breezes suppressed the temperature on a grey but generally dry day.

At the end of the day, after checking in, most of us congregated at the Newfield Inn for a pint in front of a log fire and a hot dinner in an adjacent room, where we learnt that Cumbrian gravy is more solid than liquid!

We awoke on Saturday morning to crystal clear blue skies and the heavenly smell of cooked bacon, just one component of a splendid cooked breakfast supplied by our host, Alan Clare and his capable assistants – Dave Brooks and John Jenkin.

Dotti Heaton was seen putting on some innovative waterproof socks, otherwise known to you and me as plastic bags, after getting her feet and boots soaked the previous day. Richard Gowing made his way up Caw via the quarry before returning to base via Pikes and Green Pikes.

Tim Josephy took a different route, up Harter Fell, across to Hard Knott and then north into Moasdale, onto Cockley Beck and the long slog to Greyfriar, Swirl How, Brim Fell and back to the hut via SeathwaiteTarn, some 25km and 1300m of ascent. John and Carol Whalley set off from Ulpha and followed the path across the Dunnerdale fells towards Stickle Pike. There was a profusion of lesser celandine flowers to admire along the way to the old workings at Stainton Ground quarries and on and up to Caw and the descent into Long Mire.

John Sutcliffe above the Duddon Valley and Harter Fell behind
John Sutcliffe above the Duddon Valley and Harter Fell behind

Christine and Jim joined Dotti for a walk to Harter Fell, en route via the River Duddon pathway and the road to Birks Bridge, where there was an excellent view of the river gorge and the effects of erosion. Onto Buck and Dropping crags and the atmospheric shape of Maidens Castle to the peaks which were relatively thronged with walkers. Along the way, there were magnificent views of the nearby mountains and the Furness coastline near Barrow. From Harter Fell they took the direct route down which involved skirting Wallowbarrow Crag and back to a rendezvous at the Newfield Inn.

Mick, John, Martyn, Roger and Bill on the Walna Scar track
Mick, John, Martyn, Roger and Bill on the Walna Scar Road

Mick, Martyn, John and Roger set off up the Walna Scar track and completed in a splendid high-level round of Brown Pike, Buck Pike, Dow Crag, Coniston Old Man, Swirl How, Great Carrs, Grey Friar and back to the hut via Seathwaite Tarn.

Roger at the cairn on Grey Friar
Roger at the cairn on Grey Friar
Glorious weather above the Duddon Valley
Glorious weather high above the Duddon Valley

Because Mick loves hiking so much he decided to retrace his steps back to Seathwaite Tarn after we had all returned to the hut, but rumour has it that it wasn’t so much for his love of walking but for the fact that he had left his camera on the dam wall! Glad to say he was able to take photos on the Sunday. Alan et al had a four-course meal waiting for us back at the hut. The food, drink and banter, especially from Alan when he tried to explain to us all why he had over charged us for the rooms, was an excellent way to finish off a splendid day.

Sunday, despite an earlier pessimistic weather forecast, was more of the same – lovely blue skies and abundant sunshine, with most of us electing to do shorter walks around the Dunnerdale fells before making our way home. At various times our paths crossed and it was good to have an impromptu rendezvous with fellow members. Christine, Jim and Dotti took the route up Walna Scar under White Peak and the Walna Scar quarries, onto Natty Bridge and westward to the summits of Pikes and Caw. There was quite a chill breeze at the top, but a crag afforded some shelter and wonderful views over the Furness area, while having lunch. Paul and Bill also had lunch at this spot and later on Mick, John and Roger joined them after pursuing a similar route.

Roger inspecting the Walna Scar Quarries
Roger inspecting the Walna Scar Quarries

John and Carol Whalley walked a circuit of Wallbarrow from Seathwaite church, crossing Tarn Beck and the Duddon river, scrambling up Wallbarrow with its fine views and returning to Seathwaite via High Wallbarrow farm, Grassguards and roped stepping-stones at Fickle Steps. Tim’s day had to be unfortunately cut short, after setting off up Black Combe, he got a panic call from home reporting a water leak, while Richard finished off his weekend with a walk up Stickle Pike from the Seathwaite-Broughton Mills Road.

Despite an amazing weekend weather-wise, what was striking about this area was the sheer beauty of the place and lack of people and motor tourists. The only place that was reasonably congested and typical of other well-known Lakeland peaks was the top of the Old Man, otherwise for most of the time, there was hardly a stranger in sight. Thanks again to Alan and his willing assistants for hosting an absolutely splendid weekend. RH

Attendees: Mick Borroff (President), Bill Gibbs, John Sutcliffe, Paul Dover, Carol and John Whalley, Jim Harrison, Christine Harrison (G), Richard Gowing, Dotti Heaton, Alan Clare (leader), John Jenkin, Tim Josephy, Roger Horn, Derek Clayton, Ian Crowther, John Lloyd (PM), Dave Brooks (G).

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