Meet Report: 11-18 May 2025.

The Club has held at least ten previous meets on Skye, though this was our first since the 2006 meet (YRCJ 13-2) which saw overnight snow on the tops. Accommodation had been booked at the Croft Bunkhouse in Portnalong on the Minginish peninsula. The main hut had been block-booked for members, along with three wooden wigwams. The meet offered members the opportunity to explore the isle, both the obvious mountain walking and climbing opportunities offered by the Cuillins and surrounding hills along with cycling, lower-level walks and water sports.

Preparations for the meet were briefly thrown by a criminal cyber-attack on the Co-op at the beginning of month which left the supermarket unable to restock shelves nationwide. Members planning to shop for the meet in Broadford found themselves hastily stocking their cars on the mainland before arriving on Skye. Happily, the situation steadily improved throughout the week.

Most Club members broke their journey to Skye en route to take advantage of the Highlands. First onto the isle were Ged and Aaron Campion who arrived on Saturday morning at Armadale having caught the ferry from Mallaig where they had stayed overnight in the sailor’s mission. Close behind were Helen, Michael and Fiona Smith. Helen and Michael had spent a few days in Aviemore and ascended Braeriach; they drove via Inverness airport to collect Fiona off her flight from London.

Peter and Jen Tennant arrived on Saturday and used their travel day to explore two of the remoter Corbetts enroute to Portnalong – Beinn nan Caorach and Beinn na h-Eaglaise from Corran (Glen Arnisdale) as part of their quest to complete the Corbetts in 2026.  The previous week they had been on Arran scrambling/walking the superb ridges in stunning weather conditions; the Glen Sannox round was a particularly memorable outing. 

Stuart Dix spent time in Glencoe and Torridon. From Lagangarbh hut he ascended both Buachaille Etive Beag and Mor on consecutive days. Then from the Ling Hut he had days out on Beinn Dearg and Beinn Alligin. The remoteness and steepness of Beinn Dearg made it a particularly satisfying Corbett to tick off. Having ascended Beinn an Eoin he wild camped with a plan to ascend Baosbbheinn. However, after a night and day of strong winds he decided against an ascent, but in his own words “the beauty of this less accessible hill will lure me back to the area for another go.”

An evening arrival in Fort William on Friday saw Steve and Wendy Richards pitch a tent for two nights at the pleasant Ben Nevis Holiday Park. Saturday was another dry day, so the pair set off for ‘The Ben’, walking up to Carn Dearg Meadhonach. Moving over Carn Mor Dearg they summitted Ben Nevis via the CMD Arête – an excellent and sustained Grade 1 scramble. It was the first time on the Arête for both and first time on the UK’s highest mountain for Wendy. In contrast to the Arête, the summit was crowded as the cloud eased to give a glorious day with far-reaching views. A slog down the ‘tourist’ path completed the day. Toby Dickinson had driven up to Banavie and was staying in the ‘Wild Goose’ hostel overnight; having met Toby at the end of the walk, the trio attempted to find a pub for some much-needed sustenance. Reassured by Toby, a long walk back to and beyond the campsite led to two pubs, both were fully booked. A charm offensive with a waitress resulted in the ultimatum: “Okay, but you have to have fish and chips!” A ‘no-brainer’.

Mick Borroff had broken his journey in the Scottish Borders and on Saturday walked along the River Blackadder from Greenlaw taking in Blackcastle Rings and the Kaims – a sinuous linear fluvio-glacial deposit of gravels known as an esker. The walk gave him time to consider the meet’s catering in the context of the recent Co-op cyber-attack and the limited fridge space at the hut. He visited the large Sainsbury’s in Kelso on the way and filled his car boot with food for almost a week’s communal breakfasts and his personal meals, then drove to the misty isle for his seventh trip. A quick stop at the Co-op in Kyle of Lochalsh confirmed that a lot of shelves were rather empty.

Sunday 11 May

“Mull was astern, Rum on the port, Eigg on the starboard bow.” Robert Louis Stevenson

Before everyone arrived on Skye, Peter and Jen walked up Beinn na Caillich, Sgurr na Coinnich and Ben Aslak: three Grahams located just above the Glen Elg ferry at Kylerhea. Ben Aslak had the best views of the three. Meanwhile, Toby departed Banavie after breakfast and headed over to Skye, stopping en route to walk up Coire Uaigneich followed by a short scramble up An Stac beneath Blabheinn before returning to his car and continuing to the hut.

Ged and Aaron went to Suidhe Biorach sea cliff at Elgol to climb. Unfortunately the crag was mobbed. People were even climbing the route where the abseil point was rigged. To avoid a long wait they visited Schoolhouse crag in Elgol harbour which was loose and overhanging. Having only climbed one route they headed for Portnalong after a swift pint at the Sligachan Hotel.

Helen, Michael and Fiona walked a route from Talisker Bay road end North to Fiske and West round the impressive headland, before returning to the car, spotting goosander swimming underwater, large barrel jellyfish and a harbour porpoise.

Monday 12 May

“We were in an impressive and beautiful situation on a rocky plateau.” Eric Newby

Ged and Aaron climbed Pinnacle Ridge and descended the West ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean to the corrie below Bealach a Basteir. Setting a sporting pace they overtook three guided teams, and according to Aaron’s Strava completed the expedition in 6½ hours. After returning to the hut they had dinner at the Old Inn in Carbost.

Peter, Jen and Mick teamed up for a traverse of the Cuillin outliers Garbh Beinn and Belig from the head of Loch Ainort. Garbh Beinn was described by Peter as “the best Corbett on Skye, with a huge character.” Belig was steep and pathless. They found some easy and enjoyable scrambling on gabbro along the narrow ridge and were rewarded with stunning views from the summits.  

Wendy and Steve explored the Talisker Bay area, linking two walks together for a long and satisfying day. Under glorious blue sky they reversed Michael, Helen and Fiona’s route of the day before, taking a clockwise circuit of the headland north of Talisker Bay, enjoying stunning scenery across to the Inner and Outer Hebridean Islands, Macleod’s Tables and Maidens and the islands of Oronsay and Wiay, as well as an array of wildflowers. With time in hand back at Talisker Bay, the duo walked south past the ruins of an ancient broch to the impressive dolerite columns of Preshal Beg, easily summitted from the east, before pressing back north to Preshal More, a similar cliff face easily tackled from the east. A steep descent and river crossing led back to Talisker Bay. Michael, Helen, Stuart and Steve McCain headed out to walk MacLeod’s Tables. It was a good outing with great views, tougher than expected due to the rough ground.

Fiona and Toby started the day with a dash to the Co-op in Broadford to inspect the offerings before parking at Sligachan for a day on Bruach na Frithe. They made good time on the approach and had a good scramble up the north east ‘finger’ of the Bruach to gain the ridge. After a straightforward scramble to the summit and a pause to appreciate the view, they dropped down out of the breeze for lunch, enjoying the views over the North of the Isle and out to the Minches. After a hop along the ridge to Sgurr a’ Bhasteir, they descended into Fionn Choire, dropping straight down from the Sgurr a’ Bhasteir ridge on easy ground rather than taking the festival of scree at the head of the choire. It was then an easy trot back to Coire na Circe and a quick cooling dip in a pool beneath the waterfalls on Allt Deag Mor before heading back to Portnalong.

Having never visited Skye before, Richard and Felicity were looking forward to the meet and the chance to explore the Cuillins. The recent addition to their family meant this would be their first YRC meet enjoying life at a different pace. With Vincent (4¾ months) in tow, walks had to either be short or accessible with a buggy. Despite Skye’s reputation for challenging terrain, they discovered that there are plenty of suitable options. The main tourist sites, such as the Old Man of Storr, Fairy Pools and Coral beach, all had good facilities and were correspondingly popular. The hordes of visitors from across the world at these honeypots was in stark contrast to the quiet and serenity of the rest of the isle. These popular walks were quite short and could be done with Vincent in a front harness; people were noticeably friendlier once they realised what was strapped to one’s chest. Monday saw the trio drive to Portree and do a circuit of the ‘Lump’.

Tuesday 13 May

“Skye all too often is an infatuation with the Black Cuillin… Skye generally is magnificent walkers’ country and nothing exemplifies this better than a visit to the Red Hills of Glamaig-Marsco across Glen Sligachan.” Hamish Brown

For all attendees, Tuesday was a day of objectives away from the Black Cuillin. Steve and Wendy opted for a day on the Red Cuillin. After squeezing into one of the last off-road parking slots above Sligachan, a pleasant path slowly ascended Druim na Ruaige and up through final scree slopes to the summit of Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach. Rewarded with extensive views over the Black Cuillin, north to the Trotternish Ridge and east to the endless swathe of Scotland’s north west mainland mountains, the pair enjoyed lunch on the summit before the short traverse to Beinn Dearg Mhor. Under the intimidating slopes of Glamaig, a steep and unpleasant scree descent finally led to Bealach na Sgairde, where a descent was made down the pleasant Teanga Mhor. A quick dip in the burn running down from the Bealach gave a refreshing end to a rewarding mountain day. 

Helen, Fiona, Michael and Toby reached Trotternish ridge from the Old Man of Storr via the scramble and then enjoyed the walk north over several tops under blue skies to the Quiraing Road col, in just under nine hours.  A car left there (in the cold and cloud of an early start) was used to get them back to Storr and on to Portree in time for fish and chips.

Mick’s back was playing up, so he joined Peter, Jen and Stuart for a tour of the Sanctuary, the Old Man of Storr, The Storr and Hartaval with a return via Bealach Beag starting close to the former lower car park. Fantastic photo opportunities presented themselves with cloud lingering from a temperature inversion at the start, and ring ouzels sighted along the way.

Steve M cycled to Glen Brittle on the road and got off-road as soon as possible to follow the forestry track down steep gravel to the Fairy Pools car park and then onwards south and then west round to Eynort where he rejoined the road. Access to the ruined church and graveyard proved unsuccessful, and Steve continued out to Talisker Bay and then returned to Portnalong.

Ged and Aaron departed on Tuesday, stopping at Bennie Beg crag near Crieff to do four routes on very hot basalt. They then carried on to Aaron’s flat in Edinburgh and a Thai Meal at the Lemon Grass Restaurant.

Wednesday 14 May

“… for a week or a month the weather is flawless, and you spend days in an enchanted world of essential colours, infinite distances, and an air as pure as leagues of hill and ocean can make it.”  John Buchan

By now, everyone had positively adjusted their expectations of the weather. There had been no rain on the isle for a week prior to the meet: rock was bone-dry, and the going was good. Any cloud had burned off the tops by 9am, a sea breeze blew in around mid-afternoon. The greatest weather-related hazard was sunburn. An opportunity that everyone was making the most of.

Peter and Jen headed over to the Red Cuillin to tackle a Graham and a Corbett: Beinn Dearg Mhor and Glamaig from Sligachan. They found good paths as far as Beinn Dearg Mhor with a very steep loose scree descent, followed by a steep rise up scree to Glamaig. They extended the route to visit An Coileach, the eastern top.

Mick opted for a rough cliff-top coastal circuit heading north from Talisker Bay with a return via the remains of the Dun Ard an t-Sabhail broch. The views back to the Bay from Rubha Cruinn were exceptional, although the Allt Mheididh waterfall had all but dried up in the dry conditions. Meanwhile, Stuart made a successful solo ascent of Bruach na Frithe, taking a similar route to that used by Fiona and Toby on Monday.

Inspired by Ged and Aaron’s earlier ascent and encouraged by several meet participants, Steve, Wendy and Richard tackled Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean. At Grade 3, with a couple of more difficult moves and an abseil, it was a proper mountain day out. With only two other parties on the ridge, the trio enjoyed a hassle-free ascent. For Wendy, this was a big day, moving her climbing experience forward and completing a less than straightforward abseil in an exposed position. Roping up for two short sections, the trio emerged onto the summit after an enjoyable final scramble up from the Bealach between Knight’s Peak and the summit – the former needing careful footwork in an exposed position. With the summit to themselves, the trio elected to follow the longer South East Ridge for their descent, a pleasant and airy Grade 3 scramble before the initially rough path was reached which curves around to the north and back to Sligachan.

Following Tuesday’s exertions on the Trotternish ridge, and with an overnight bivvy to come, Fiona and Toby opted for a lighter morning, going to Fiskavaig Bay for a stand-up paddle session. Fiona demonstrated her mastery of the board, paddling out of the bay and around Ardtreck Point to Portnalong Pier. Toby knocked the rust off his sea kayaking skills and “misemployed” them on his first time on a SUP without embarrassment or getting anything other than his feet wet.

Helen, Michael, Felicity and Vincent started the day with a walk round the headland to the west from the bunkhouse to see Fiona paddleboard past. Then Helen and Michael walked over to the island of Oronsay where a great skua flew past (without diving at them). Hastening along against a rising tide a mussel collector was taking two sacks to be sold to restaurants: five hours work for him. They then visited the nearby overgrown chambered burial cairn before returning to Skye.

After lunch at the hut, Fiona and Toby drove to Glen Brittle and set off for a night in the mountains. With packs filled with water and bivvy supplies, they scrambled up Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda. It was hot going with big sacks, and a swim was required once they reached the lochan; this had the desired effect of cooling them off within a few seconds of entering the water. This was their sleeping spot for the night, sheltered from the wind and without too many midges, although there were some noisy seagulls for company. Dinner was pasta accompanied by a dram of whisky, then it was time to wrap up warm in their bivvy bags and watch the stars in the interval between twilight and moonrise.

Steve M explored the out and back route to Gars-bheinn from Sgurr nan Eag to see whether it would be a better option than slogging up the Gars-bheinn screes for starting a ridge traverse. Steve found it slow going in the heat and was late down, having passed Fiona and Toby at the lochan. 

Thursday 15 May.

“Lightsomely marched he out of the broad

On to the narrow and narrow;

A step more, rounding the angular rock,

Reached the front straight as an arrow.”                                         Robert Browning

Thursday saw three separate teams on the Cuillin Ridge. Alongside Michael and Helen, Steve and Wendy reached the ridge via the rough path from the BMC/MS’s Glen Brittle hut up Coire na Banachdich from where Helen and Michael would have a grandstand view of Steve and Wendy’s ascent of the Inaccessible Pinnacle. For Steve and Wendy it was a short walk up steep scree on the ridge to reach the summit of Sgurr Dearg to look across at the imposing Inaccessible Pinnacle – considered to be the hardest Munro. With a mixture of excitement and trepidation, Steve and Wendy scrambled down to the base of the Pinnacle’s East ridge. Although only graded at Moderate, the climb is hugely intimidating, being little more than a foot wide in places with significant drops on either side, and perched high on the ridge in an exposed position. Following a successful two pitch climb to the top, the pair then abseiled down the shorter West ridge. For Steve, this climb met a long-held ambition and for Wendy, was a significant milestone in her climbing journey, which started just under three years ago with a YRC introductory meet at Lowstern. Both felt it was a significant achievement in the face of a daunting challenge. The fact that the pair seemed to be the only self-sufficient climbers on the In Pinn, with every other party being a guide with obvious novice/non-climber clients, made the achievement seem more real and well deserved.

After coiling the rope, the pair rejoined the ever-patient Michael and Helen for a late lunch, retrieving Steve’s camera from Michael, who seemed to have captured every ascent and descent of the In Pinn over the previous hour. Always on the lookout for new members, Michael had offered to supply images to fellow summiteers – provided they pledged to join the YRC! The scramble and walk down the West ridge of Sgurr Dearg back to Glen Brittle was never too difficult and revealed more stunning views across Soay to Rum, Canna, Eigg and beyond.

Further South on the ridge, Fiona and Toby were woken early by their seagull friends and after enjoying coffee and a hot breakfast, decided it was time to do some walking. A steep ascent with loose rock took them to the top of Sgurr nan Eag. The excellent weather ensured were great views of the rest of the Cuillin Ridge to the North and the island of Rhum to the South. With the rocky ground it was hard to pick out the standard route but with some scrambling and only a small amount of ‘Type 2’ fun the pair made their way along the ridge via Sgurr a Choire Bhig to Gars-bheinn: the start of the Cuillin Ridge. Retracing their steps to Sgurr a Choire Bhig they looked for a potential descent route but seeing nothing that looked sensible to attempt without a rope they decided a trip back up Sgurr nan Eag and down to the lochan was the best bet. This also allowed for a welcome water refill.  After this, it was back down to the Glenbrittle campsite shop for ice creams then a much-needed shower and comfortable mattresses.

Jen, Peter and Stuart enjoyed “the best views from a Graham on Skye this week” on Marsco. A steep ascent of Marsco’s pathless North ridge paid off, and the trio took in the stunning closeup views of the Black Cuillin, Red Cuillin, Rum Cuillin and out to the hills across the mainland. 

Richard, Felicity and Vincent had a trip out to the Old Man of Storr before returning to the hut to join Helen and Michael and Fiona for a Smith family dinner of haggis and mash served with a creamy whisky sauce.

Suisnish and Boreaig are two ruined coastal villages on the North side of Loch Eishort cleared in the nineteenth century to make way for sheep. Mick walked a circuit from the Cill Chriosd ruined church that links them, taking in Stac Suisnish on the coast and the extensive rock pavement extending below the 30 m cliffs which is uncovered at low tide. The ruins generally stand to wall head height and one can only imagine what the village would have looked like 170 years ago with smoke emerging from its ling-thatched dwellings and the tenant crofters, with their children and animals outside on such a fine May day. He visited the disused marble quarries at Kilchrist on the return.

Friday 16 May

“Everyone must know the feeling of triumph and pride which a grand view from a height communicates to the mind.”  Charles Darwin

Having left their car in Portree, Steve and Wendy took a lift with Mick up to The Quiraing, from where they completed the Trotternish Ridge all the way back to Portree: 36km and over 2400m of ascent over some of Skye’s most elegant and at the same time rugged scenery. Backtracking at the start to take in Sron Vourlinn, a solo ring ouzel gave the pair an auspicious start with its brief company. Coffee at the car park kiosk on the Staffin/Uig road was a welcome uplift to fuel the following hours of relentless up and down, made easier by the dry terrain and incredible views. Finally reaching The Storr by 6pm, the pair celebrated with tea and hot cross buns before the final stretch to Portree, which proved the most difficult, being a mainly pathless trudge through heather and grassy tussocks, over several hills down to the road above Portree. After thirteen hours on the go, a Co-op meal deal served its purpose before a late arrival back at the bunkhouse and weary legs all round!

Having taken Steve and Wendy up to Flodigarry to begin their Trotternish Ridge traverse, Mick set off after them past Lochs Langaig and Hasco for a good look round the Quiraing landslip and its pinnacles. He then climbed Leac nan Fionn (Fingal’s tomb) and descended via the much less-frequented terrain in Pinnacle Basin which sits below the cliffs of Sron Vourlinn to join his outward route.

Jen and Peter spent the day tackling the Broadford Grahams: Beinn na Caillich and Beinn Dearg Mhor from Old Corrie. This was a short and enjoyable route with good views of Blabheinn and the Red Cuillin, with a steep ascent across a boulder field and a short scree descent. Meanwhile, Steve M did the Glamaig circuit from Sligachan. The descent off Beinn Dearg Mhor was exactly as others had described from their earlier outing! 

Fiona, Richard, Felicity and Vincent headed to Glen Brittle for a visit to the fairy pools after which they took in the views of the Glen Brittle forest walk. The forestry track was at the limit of accessibility for a pram, requiring the combined efforts of all three adults to take it in turns to push! Glen Brittle beach was easier going for a pram in the afternoon. Fiona and Richard paddle boarded at the head of Loch Brittle before returning to the hut.

Toby parked at Luig and walked up the North ridge of Glas Bheinn Mor, making use of an intermittent track where it could be found, and descending the same way to avoid the multiple stream and river crossings the hill’s Eastern flank had to offer.

Saturday 17 May

“The only explanation was that when I walked I lost myself.”  Andy Cave

Mick’s back had recovered sufficiently by now for him to enjoy a steeper walk and having never climbed it before, an ascent of Marsco from Sligachan was the obvious choice. On the way he found a meadow pipit’s nest with three brown eggs in it and saw another brave meadow pipit mobbing a cuckoo. Like other members who climbed it earlier in the week, he revelled in the magnificent views and lingered at the summit recalling many previous adventures over the years on the Cuillin opposite.

Steve and Wendy took a rest day after their Trotternish Ridge exertions, taking a local walk from the bunkhouse around Ardtreck Point, viewing the ruins of Dun Ardtreck and enjoying a fresh (and cold) swim in the sea with jellyfish for company!

Fiona and Toby parked at Sligachan, observing the two dozen campervans at the campsite opposite vying for a few square metres of solitude and authenticity. A walk down a quiet Glen Sligachan took them west past the Bloody Stone into an even quieter Harta Corrie, and lunch beneath the imposing south side of Am Basteir. The return up the Glen was busier with walkers heading down the path to Loch Coruisk.

After visiting all Corbetts and Grahams on Skye during the Skye meet, Peter and Jen moved onto Gairlochy to tackle some outlying Corbetts left behind on previous trips – 6 Corbetts and 2 Grahams across various Highland glens (Glen Dessary, Glen Etive, Glen Roy, Glen Loy and Glen Huirich), passing the 200 mark on Sgurr an Fhurain (Glen Dessary).

Sunday 18 May

“It was a good day to start a journey; the crest of the hill beckoned to him in the sunshine, with the road winding up and disappearing on the other side to find a new valley, and then a new hill…” Tove Jansson

On his way back to the Borders, Mick met up with Inverness-based member Bob Peckham and climbed Little Wyvis – a Corbett – from Silverbridge, in lovely weather tempered by a strong chilly breeze. Toby and Fiona left the hut early to get Fiona to Glasgow airport in time for her flight back to London.

Not ready to leave Skye, Steve and Wendy opted to move North to camp at Staffin, under the Trotternish Ridge. But not before Steve enjoyed a ‘Made by the Sea’ whisky tasting session at the Talisker Distillery in Carbost, whilst Wendy enjoyed the sunshine and views from the terrace of the Old Inn, with a less alcoholic pot of tea. To finish their visit to Skye, Steve and Wendy spent a day on foot, exploring around The Quiraing and searching for the elusive dinosaur footprints at An Corran, Staffin Bay, as well as a delightful day walking around Rubha Hunish (including the dramatically placed Lookout Bothy high on the cliffs) and Duntulm Castle on the northern tip of Skye. A final day relaxing in Portree and picnicking on Coral Beach finished off a trip to the Isle of Skye to be remembered.

“… all the most exciting charts and maps have places on them that are marked ‘Unexplored’.” Arthur Ransome

Towards the end of the week, Fiona, Mick and Toby all commented that they had assumed in advance that the meet would have lost one whole day to Hebridean weather, and would have had to adjust plans on at least one other day. In being able to make the most of Skye and of the weather, members were able to enjoy both long days out and each other’s company in the hut in the evening: sharing stories from the day and tips for the next day’s objectives. In spite of its more remote location, Portnalong is only a 20-minute drive from Sligachan and 40 – 45 minutes from both Portree and Broadford: with the exception of the North end of the Trotternish Ridge, most objectives are relatively close by. Some members had other commitments and had to leave a day or two early, others were able to extend their stay a little longer. All members made the most of their time on the meet, without coming close to running out of things to see and do; there is an inexhaustible list of possibilities on Skye.

Attendees:

Mick Borroff, Aaron Campion, Ged Campion, Toby Dickinson, Stuart Dix, Steve McCain, Steve Richards, Wendy Richards, Felicity Roberts, Fiona Smith, Helen Smith, Michael Smith, Richard Smith, Vincent Smith, Jennifer Tennant, Peter Tennant.