North Wales climbing meet

Badychain, Helen and Andrea

Meet Report: 16-18 June 2023. Seven members a PM and a guest attended this most successful and enjoyable meet at the Clogwyn MC’s hut The Old Stable, situated on the road to Croesor near Plas Brondanw, erstwhile home of Clough Williams Ellis. Williams Ellis was the celebrated Welsh architect who created the fantasy Italianate village of Portmeirion nearby. Our thoughts however were focused on climbing and although the long dry spell was breaking down over the weekend we were lucky with the showers  and activity was not seriously affected.

Arriving at the hut early, Helen and Michael Smith walked along a pleasant ridge to Croesor. The attempted return along the disused quarry railway line failed, entailing a long diversion.

Downpours on Friday night cleared to leave a warm and sunny day. Four climbers, Helen B and Andrea with Mark and Richard drove to the Moelwyn crags. Visiting Craig yr Wrysgan first, Mark and Richard climbed White Streak and Honeysuckle Corner at HS whilst the others did the excellent Y Gelynen, given V Diff but no pushover at that grade. They then moved over to Craig Clipiau, Richard’s diretissima approach causing some dissension among the ranks. Helen and Andrea climbed Usher’s Dilemma, a fine HS whilst Mark and Richard did the two star Depression Direct at VS with a tough finish.

The rest of the meet drove down to the Rhinogs to mount an assault on the fabled South Ridge of  Rhinog Fawr, rated “ moderately difficult” by the first ascensionist, Showell Styles in 1935. Styles was a modest man and they feared the worst. After parking at the head of Cwm Nantcol they ascended through ever more rough and spectacular terrain to the shores of Llyn Hywel. One, who had driven through Rhyd Ddu early that morning and witnessed the hordes already setting off for Snowdon was struck by the wonderful solitude. One man and his dog was about it.

Llyn Hywel, Chris, Fiona and Helen

After a nervous lunch under the precipice, pipes were knocked out and the assault began. Smith led off, followed by Smith and Smith. Hilton offered encouragement and Josephy took up the rear where  he could escape if things got too much. Smith negotiated a steep buttress, Smith followed but Smith took a detour through deep heather. Relying on Heisenberg’s Theory (look it up), she attempted to go through a rock rather than round it, resulting in a splendid bruise as a badge of honour. Another steep step intervened and Smith stuck. Smith uncoiled the rope and lowered it. Josephy tied Smith on and Hilton applied firm pressure to the buttock (discussion ensued as to which noun “firm” should be attached but delicacy precludes further elaboration). This proved the last major obstacle and the summit was soon gained in triumph.

A very steep and rough descent took them North to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy below Rhinog Fawr. It was hot and oppressive. Hilton announced he was suffering from glacier lassitude and wasn’t up for the ascent. Resistance rapidly crumbled and apart from Smith jnr who carried on, the rest returned to the car down the valley.

The meet reassembled in the small but cosy and very well kept Old Stable hut to find Andrea and Helen constructing some fantastic salads to accompany the sausages roasting in the oven. The usual convivial evening ensued and all were in bed before long.

Saturday dinner in the Old Stable

Sunday dawned bright and sunny. Chris climbed Cnicht before heading home. The Smiths accompanied him over Cnicht then continued to the Rhosydd quarries, battling the insect life before returning to Croesor, just managing to beat the rain. Finding the café closed they stopped at the Plas Brondanw Gardens just by the hut.

Helen, Andrea, Mark and Tim went to the sport crag of Badychain just above Tan y Grisiau. This is a delightful spot with views south to the Rhinogs and Trawsfynnydd. Recently bolted, it offers a wide range of sport routes across the grades and is an ideal spot for a short day. A good number of routes in the 5th and 6th grades were climbed on excellent grippy rock before the storms finally rolled in after lunch to put a stop to proceedings.

The hut was an excellent venue, the weather was kind and a good time was had by all. Thanks to Helen Brewitt for the catering and the Clogwyn MC for the use of their charming property.

Attending: Helen Brewitt, Andrea Stimson (G), Helen Smith, Michael Smith, Fiona Smith, Richard Smith, Chris Hilton, Mark Rothwell (PM), Tim Josephy

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