Meet Report: 15-22 June 2022. Hut to hut touring in the Massif du Canigou.

At last, this meet, originally scheduled for 2020 and organised by Kjetil Tveranger, actually got underway but not without hiccoughs. Our original flight from Stansted to Perpignan was cancelled and everyone had to rebook which involved rescheduling the whole trip. Also a threat of rail strikes caused a change of travel plans to Birmingham Airport with all electing to drive or travel by coach (two members had an interesting overnight stay in a less salubrious part of the Black Country). Warnings of long queues at security meant that all were at the airport  very early, but apart from a slight delay to take-off all went well.  By mid afternoon we were met by Kjetil and Ann Karin with their two cars at the airport and driven to their house in Tuchan – our base for the meet. Mick also rented a car as there were eleven of us to transport. Four stayed at the house and the remainder at a cabin on a nearby campsite. Our hosts had prepared an evening meal and it was very pleasant sitting outside in the warm after a dip in their pool.

Thursday 16th

There was some repacking for our 5-day trek next morning but by 8.50 the three cars in convoy made the 1½ hour drive to Thules-Entre Valls. This was followed by some car shuffling to ensure one car was at the foot of Canigou for our return. By 12.30 we set off for the 11 km walk with 1000m of ascent up the Gorges  de la Caranca. This was exciting with ladders, walkways and at least 10 passerelles (bridges) to cross – some of them swaying wildly. It was also quite busy – clearly a tourist attraction.

After a long, hot day all were pleased to arrive at the Refuge du Ras de la Caranca. Several of the team were quite tired  – one member’s stamina improved in subsequent days once someone else took over responsibility for carrying the whisky! The hut had simple facilities (washing in the river) but was comfortable although they were struggling to find blankets for everyone. The meal of steak and potato pie was welcome and the dessert of chocolate covered cornflakes reminded us of children’s parties of old. We turned in at about 9.30.

Friday 17th

Following a simple breakfast and a wait for our packed lunches, we were underway by 8.30. The flowers (pink azaleas and yellow broom), as we climbed to the Coll del Pal (2294m),  were stunning. A welcome stop at the Col and we were rewarded with a flypast by a bearded vulture, the highlight of the trip for one member.

At this point Richard S and Fliss headed south to go over a couple of additional tops, the rest of us followed the GR10 to drop into a valley below the small restored village of Mantet. It was very hot as we climbed up to the village. Our accommodation for the night, the Casenove, was more “gite” than hut with very tasty food and wonderful views from the terrace where the birders were kept busy spotting redstarts, honey buzzards and possibly a roosting vulture. We were made very welcome by the owner and his mother, who prided herself on the beautiful garden.

Saturday 18th

After a 7.00am breakfast we were off to the Col de Mantet where a decision had to be made. We had assumed most would head down to the small village of Py and take the shorter route to the next hut. However, the prospect of heading downhill so early in the morning having just reached the col spurred eight of us to take the higher but considerably longer route. We climbed steadily to join a ridge close to the Spanish border. It had rocky sections and towers but the path skirted round these and we had about 12km of good views from the top. A moderate breeze kept us cool. All in all about a 25km walk with a final steep descent where we met the other three at the Refuge de Mariailles.

They had experienced a very warm and steep climb up to the refuge. The refuge was comfortable but had a lot of rules – we could only check in once we had all arrived and rucksacks had to be left in the sack room and belongings to be taken to the dorm transferred into a small box. The local beer at 8% was very welcome on arrival after a long hot day but your scribe decided after one that she was struggling to stand up straight so moved on to something less strong!

Sunday 19th

There was a warning of high and increasing winds for our day on Canigou. There was certainly some doubt whether we would be able to make the summit but reports from those coming down were encouraging so we decided to go for it and not take the traversing path round the west of the mountain. We walked northeast through azalea-strewn alps with marmots and up rockier slopes to a col (Portella de Vallmanya) and a rising rough traverse to a steep rock gully ending in an exciting clamber up a chimney (La Cheminée). Strong gusty winds were blowing upwards and it was less windy on the summit (2784m) with its iron cross surrounded by sticks and Catalan flags all ready to be lit for the Fête de la St Jean – a celebration of friendship and midsummer where each local village takes a bundle of sticks to be lit on the 22nd June. 

The descent to the north was down steep zigzags and the wind increased as we descended, blowing one member off her feet and into a rock. From Pic Joffre we saw a helicopter and Richard S saw it pick up someone who had been blown off the Crête du Barbet ridge. We continued slowly down to the Refuge de Cortalets chatting to locals and reading about Noah mooring his Ark on top of Canigou! Once at the hut, a young camper asked if we had seen his friends – sadly it is likely that they were the ones attended to by the helicopter. It was an excellent evening meal of chorizo sausage and rice in a rich tomato sauce. We were all in one dorm at the top of the refuge – the extra flight of stairs to the top floor was an effort after a strenuous day.

Monday 20th

Off at 8.15 down the old Piste de Balaig path through forests and crags and an old iron ore mine to the campsite at Coll de Milleres. The drivers headed off to  pick up cars from the start while the rest of us had a drink, ice-cream and a game of table tennis though it was rather hot at 843m. On the way back we stopped at Villefranche-de-Conflent – had lunch and wandered around the old fortified town. All had a light meal at Kjetil and Ann-Karins in the evening and those who had been on the ski trip earlier in the year were reunited with Nico, the Tveranger’s giant schnauzer who had been staying with friends whilst we were on the trek.

Tuesday 21st

Not an early start today! Once the others arrived from the campsite and had breakfast we went for a stroll around Tuchan’s narrow streets, had a coffee and beer at the Globe Kafe, light lunch at the Tverangers and then all piled into the cars to visit the local castle Chateau D’Aguilar perched impressively on a hill. In the evening we gathered at the campsite restaurant for a final meal before the main party returned home. A nightingale was heard and spotted near the cabin.

Wednesday 22nd

Richard T and Peter C extended their stay in France and went off to explore Carcassonne for a couple of days. The remainder visited the impressive ridge-top castle of Peyrepertuse before Mick, Becca and Pete B headed off to the airport and three Smiths and a Roberts headed back to Tuchan to spend a few more days with Kjetil and Ann-Karin. They had a super time including a couple of half days sport climbing, local walks and swimming in a  gorge.

Thank you Kjetil for organising this splendid trip in a most attractive area. Not only were the mountains impressive but there was so much else to appreciate including the flowers, beautiful butterflies, insects, birds and pretty villages. 

Also, thanks to Mick for organising the car rental and driving. Special thanks though to Kjetil and Ann Karin for their warm hospitality – you made us all very welcome.

Attending

Pete Bann (PM), Mick Borroff, Peter Chadwick, Becca Humphreys, Felicity Roberts, Helen Smith, Michael Smith, Richard Smith, Richard Taylor, Ann Karin Tveranger (G), Kjetil Tveranger