Scotland, Ardgour

Meet Report: 10-13 Oct 2019.

Castle Tioram, Loch Moidart

Is it connected with memories of Yorkshire’s maritime adventurers such as Cook and Scoresby or recalling crossings to mainland Europe en route to the Alps that make those few minutes on the Corran ferry set meets on Ardgour and Ardnamurchan apart from the usual run of meets?

On Thursday, the three cars from Wales, Sheffield and Leeds arrived at the Ariundle Centre’s bunkhouse all within half an hour of one another – all complaining of the rain blighting their journeys. The bunkhouse had everything required though is in need of a bit more care and attention. Associated with it is a restaurant and a mile away is a shop. All that was lacking on Friday morning was good weather and our two absentees: one from overwork and the other from catching a bug while cycling in Scotland. So the mag… persistent seven constituted the meet.

Two hopeful canoeists searched the shores of Loch Moidart for a suitable launching area but were disappointed by wind, wave or poor terrain. More successful were two of the troglodyte persuasion who headed up the valley above Strontian over rough trackless ground in search of an entrance in the Whitesmith lead mines. They found it and one managed to squeeze past the guarding gate but soon found the passage too collapsed to be a sensible venture. They subsequently found a more recent entrance and explored it for some way before the reliance on only one light dictated a return. One drove back whilst the other splashed across the moor and returned through the ancient Ariundle forest. Three tolerated the 90-minute drive out to the Point of Ardnamurchan, veered right before the end and parked at Portuairk. From there, reaching Sanna Bay involved a couple of swollen stream crossings. Arrival at the northern end of the Bay was carefully timed to coincide with low tide for a crossing to Sanna Island. This was thwarted as the sands never emerged from the choppy seas of a neap tide. Instead, a windy and boggy circuit was made of Sanna Point taking in the scant remains of the Dun Ban fort before returning and visiting the lighthouse for a tour and a cuppa.

Each evening most ate in the bunkhouse restaurant which had a different menu every night, good food, a small selection of wines and unrushed service, all of which suited us nicely.

Saturday dawned drier and tempted us to aim for greater things. Harvey drove Tim’s car out towards Ardnamuchan before parking below Garbh Bheinn and paddling some way up its boggy valley on the stalker’s track. Paddling of a more serious nature, in a two-person kayak, was achieved by launching near Strontian and heading round the head of the loch then west through showers. The trip nearly didn’t get underway as the slippery slipway resulted in John taking a tumble. On the return the wind behind made steering more difficult and almost back they encountering a curious seal before returning.

The remaining four were parked by the River Tarbert below Garbh Bheinn for an attempt on the Pinnacle Ridge scramble, drawn by a dryish forecast. They were misled. Sploshing up Coire an Lubhair to the supposed foot of the ridge, they chose instead to continue to the Bealach Feith ‘n Amean. Close inspection of the contours on the 25k map suggested a possible way almost due south from the tiny lochan to Garbh Bheinn’s summit.

Despite a hail shower this was attempted by starting up a steep grassy gully to emerge in a hanging corrie. Keeping a little left, the summit was reached with a little easy scrambling. That same general line took them to the subsidiary south summit after a short excursion westward in error. A rare moment of bright sunlight produced a brilliant Brocken spectre. Heading south-east they eventually regained their car after a rough but rewarding circuit.

Sunday, most were heading straight home, back across the sea to their everyday lives. Three though, seeing Sunday’s good forecast extended their stay and walked up from the Resipole campsite up the Corbett, Beinn Resipol. The long moorland approach was boggy but the last kilometre improved once the path was abandoned for an easy scramble over mica bearing schist. The summit has a reputation for good views and it did not disappoint: Coll, Muick, Eigg, Rum, Skye, Torridon and lochs Sunart, Sheil and Moidart were readily identified.

Also spotted over the extended weekend were: sea eagles, buzzards, little grebe on a sea loch, otters and a pine marten. Stags were rutting and their bellowing was heard across the glens.

Thanks go to Peter for organising our breakfasts and the Ariundle Centre for the accommodation and dinners.

Attended by:

Peter Chadwick, Tim Josephy, Harvey Lomas, Helen Smith, Michael Smith, Carol Whalley, John Whalley.

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