Expedition Diary
1957 – Nepal
Maurice Wilson
May 10. Camp 1 to Base Camp.
Dan woke up feeling much better and the stove worked without any trouble. As soon as I sighted the other party at the chortan, Dan started to get ready for the journey. He was much more active today and was out of the tent in five minutes. I started to pack up when the transport party arrived. Dan was a bit unsteady to begin with but soon improved. We had him roped between Andy and Arthur.
All went well until we reached the main stone couloir. He was got over to the fixed rope but, just as he was starting the traverse, some stones started to fall. I shouted, Dan ducked, and lost his footing while doing so. Ang Temba and Arthur laboriously helped him to his feet and the traverse was completed.
My own traverse was quite exciting. I was just below the very large boulder … a recognised danger spot … when the others started shouting a warning. I looked up to see several large stones coming over the top of the boulder. I ducked and weaved and managed to avoid them. My only injury was a scrape on the back of my left hand and my beloved Kangol beret had been whipped off my head into the gully. The remainder of the sherpas got across without any trouble.
The rest of the journey was slow but uneventful. I must say it is a relief to get back to Base Camp with all safe and well. Gave Ang Temba some ‘fielding practice’ with cheese tins. They can’t catch!
May 11, Base Camp.
Spent the morning packing up. Pemba helped me to pack into a box those things not needed for the journey and into a kit-bag those things I will need. It was quite amusing the way things tumbled out of the large kit-bag … especially tobacco, which I have seldom had the chance to smoke. Organised the food required and think we shall need eight loads, plus four men to act as stretcher bearers. This should be about right. Repacked Dan’s medical box. The Tempathang men, who arrived yesterday, strengthened the stretcher on which we are to carry Lakpa. Last day at Base Camp spent with mixed feelings. It has been ‘home’ for a while and there is a long journey ahead.
May 12. Departure from Base Camp.
Awoke to find the camp covered with snow. Started to get things together for our departure but, during breakfast, it started to snow again, with intensity. Preparing two injured men for transport … one with a broken leg … under these conditions, was most trying. Even more trying was Nima Lama, who kept up a running banter indefinitely, thereby handicapping our progress. What he was saying I never discovered, but he seemed to be picking a quarrel with Ang Temba. His brother Tensing Lama is much better. Eventually, the patients were prepared and we got away about 9.30 am.
It was still snowing lightly but much brighter. Andy and Arthur accompanied the party as far as the Elephant Rock. We then embarked on the long descent down to Pemsall. Lakpa, who started off strapped to the stretcher, was transferred to a carrier on the back of one of the sherpas. It was a steep slope, so I held Dan on the end of a rope.
It was a long, slow descent, but the weather improved and we reached Pemsall in 3½ hours. After a rest and some buscuits we continued into the woods. These were delightful, but by now Dan was getting very tired. I must say the Tempathang men were most helpful. Lakpa, now back on the stretcher looked like a king, riding on high and smoking a cigarette. The Tempathang men use bamboo stalks as cigarette holders. Finally, we reached and camped for the night in a big cave at Tongshung. We did not use the tents, just lay on a lilo in front of a big log fire. We had a fine view, a burnt tree framed the entrance to the cave, we sang songs and it was a lovely atmosphere. The porters drank out of their hats, and cooked and moulded tzampa into a dirty, stodgy looking paste. by now, Nima has become very subdued. I saw Ang Temba pouring generous helpings of tzampa to a boy who had brought none with him.