Expedition Diary

1957 – Nepal

Maurice Wilson

May 4, Camp 3 to Base Camp.

Once more there had been lots of snow overnight, and the tents took a lot of digging out. We had our porridge raw but the scene outside was beautiful. It is hard to realise that our three friends lie entombed in the glacier above. Arthur and I left to do some surveying at Camp 2 loaded with all our usual gear. We got several rays and elevations at this station which were helpful. Avalanches continue to fall all round with great frequency. I have never heard so many in one area. As cloud enveloped us we moved down to Camp 1. We found it very difficult to find the route through die icefall in the mist, combined with a perfect crescendo of stonefalls from the cliffs on our right. Certainly, the icefall had altered a good deal and needed every care. Dan and Ang Temba met us at Camp 1 and escorted us back to Base. The route across had altered considerably. The stone couloir was a perfect menace and more grass was now exposed on the slopes. It started to rain just before we got in and I got rather wet. The rain has continued for several hours and life about camp is muddy and unpleasant.

May 5, Base Camp.

There was a little inclination to turn out this morning. Nine days away from Base Camp makes one appreciate its relative comforts. George was making his final preparations to leave for Kathmandu. We all took a number of photographs and George, Murari and Pasang got away in due course. We then set about making the camp more ship-shape. The tent in which I was sleeping was moved to the position formerly occupied by Arthur’s ‘Pal-o-Mine’. I shall occupy it tonight, alone. A tent flysheet was then erected in the vacant space to serve as a dining-room. Personal boxes and food boxes make excellent tables and seats. As usual it started to rain in the afternoon, turning to hail and then back again to rain. The weather really is appalling after each mid-day.

May 6, Base Camp

We were all up at 5.00 a.m. and I was pleased when Andy informed me that he and I were to reconnoitre the way down to the Dorje Lakpa glacier. Arthur and Dan, with sherpas, are going down to Camp 2 to retrieve equipment. I had no desire to go, again, to that glacier. The others left just before we did.

We left at 6.00 a.m. and got up the steep slopes above the camp and reached the pass in 2Vi hours. From there we went down the snow slopes on the other side, looking for a suitable way down. Clouds interfered with our total view of the Dorje Lakpa ridge. On our return, we glissaded down the snow slopes on this side and inspected the ruined shacks in the corrie above Base Camp. At the former Scottish Ladies camp, I found an old basketball boot. Nima and his brother awaited our arrival.

They brought bad news. They gave us a note from Arthur to the effect that Dan had broken his arm and Lakpa Tsering had broken his leg while on the traverse. All were at Camp 1, so, Andy went across with morphia and other medical. supplies. I remained at Base Camp with Nima Lama and his brother. (Exchanged Ryvita tin for flint etc and some food for potatoes.) Soon after, we had a terrific thunderstorm with lots of snow. I was amazed to see how these two padded about the snow in bare feet. Eventually, they installed themselves, complete with a fire, behind a boulder. I hardly expected Andy’s party to return from Camp 1, but they did turn up just as the storm drew to its close.