A Summers Climbing Dream

Jon Riley

Whilst the club was meeting in the Picos de Europa, Claire and I left Spain and drove into France to sample some of the fantastic low level rock climbing.  Although none of the areas that we went to are new, I thought it was worth writing about them in case you had never considered trying sport climbing in France. The first thing you need to realise is that many French people regard climbing as a sport similar to tennis or golf whereas many British people regard climbing as ‘a way of life’.  This difference in attitude leads to some differences in style, probably the most obvious example being bolting.

The French love bolts! Take for example the crag at Orpierre. The whole village is geared up for rock climbing, You buy a topo for 10 francs in any bar or shop and arrive at the crag 15 minutes later carrying only a 60m rope, 10 quick draws, rock boots, chalk bag and wearing your harness a pair of shorts, a climbing vest and sandals – no need for a rucsac, no spare clothing, bivi gear, big boots, flares, whistles, maps, compasses and all the other parafinalia that escorts climbers everywhere in Britain!

Once you start climbing you realise how much fun sport climbing can be because you are not wobbling on the crux of a climb as your marginal protection falls out and shoots down the rope to your belayer. Instead you can confidently cruise the crux with a resin bolt at  waist  height. A popular misconception is that all sport climbers climb wildly overhanging routes flexing there enormous muscles on 8a moves before hopelessly lobbing off into space – not true (most of the time). In fact in France you will find all ages and abilities climbing. We saw 7 year olds leading well bolted V.Diffs and whole families going out climbing together, retiring to the shady cafes in the village during the heat of the day and returning to the crag to climb in the evening.  

I can hear you all asking ‘Are there any draw backs to this climbing paradise?’. Well yes. Claire and I really enjoyed our time at Orpierre, we climbed 6 routes a day for a week non stop, but by the end of that time we started not to care about the quality of routes, more the quantity, and I cannot honestly say I remember all the moves of any one climb – it all sort of blends into one. Unlike say Botterills Slab or Gimmer Crack or Old Lace on Earl Crag, there are very few obvious lines, many of the moves are very similar and the bolts mean that you don’t really get worried which tends to be what I remember most! However I wholeheartedly recommend a weeks climbing there whether you go to climb purely for enjoyment or to push your grade in a safe and friendly environment.

If however you want something a little more adventurous then may I suggest a gobsmaking route at Buis-les-Baronnies. As you drive towards the village your eyes are drawn to what looks like a clean wall of limestone about 300′ high and a mile long, with pinnacles along the top similar to Bristly Ridge on Tryfan. However as you drive past the end of it you realise that it is about 2′ wide! The route follows the crest of this amazing fin of rock. The Traversee Des Aretes is technically about VS 4b but the incredibly exposed position rivals many routes that I have climbed in the Alps. In all a traverse takes about 7 hours and descent is by abseil and chain handlines down the south face. As with all classic routes the crux is at the end and I suggest that you start early in the morning and carry lots of water because it is in the sun all day.

You only need a small rack of gear and a few quick draws as the crux has some bolts on it. We also found that a 60 metre rope was invaluable as we just reached  the belay stances some of which were equipped with bolts and pegs. I will never forget belaying Claire, as she climbed up the knife edge arete at the start of the route with both of my legs dangling in space on either side of the crest as the sun rose up behind us, absolutely stunning.

Useful tips:

1. We found that Bill Birketts ‘French Rock’ was very useful, it gives an overview of the major sport climbing crags in France and although it doesn’t list all the routes you can buy a topo when you arrive. Guide book available from David Hall at Base Camp (little plug there David, I will collect the commission later!).

2. You need to drink gallons of water so we used a Camelbak each, for anyone who has never heard of a Camelbak its a bag with a drinking tube that you carry in a pouch on your back so that you can drink whilst moving around, I no longer use a water bottle I put one of these into my rucsac and when I need to drink I just suck – no need to even stop! Brilliant for climbing long hot routes, it holds about 1.5 litres and the opening is big enough for ice cubes, amazingly enough the liquid stays lovely and cool.  Base Camp may sell them, if not try a bike shop as they are very popular with cyclists.

3.  Take at least 60m of rope.  A 45/50m one is next to useless on many French crags.  Indeed you can spot the British climbers as they are the ones dangling five metres above the next abseil point!  Double 45m ropes are ideal.

If anyone requires any more information please contact me as I have a load of topos, guide books and pictures.  I can really recommend it.