Expedition Diary

1957 –  Nepal

Maurice Wilson

April 28, Camp 1.    We started rather later than usual this morning, as we had to move two boxes of food up to Camp 2.  Indeed, the sun was already on the upper glacier before we reached it.  We are becoming more adept at scrambling up the short rock pitch flanking the icefall.  On the glacier, the snow was softening and I found the going rather slow, and we took at least half an hour longer than usual.  Andy was willing to go on to Camp 3, but I didn’t feel up to it.  In fact, as we started to descend the glacier I realised I was not well and was very pleased to reach Camp 1.  I think it was the porridge we had this morning which didn’t go down too well.

In the afternoon, it became very dark and soon thunder and lighting were let loose.  I was afraid it might loosen some of the rock above us but, fortunately, the storm only lasted half an hour. I don’t like this camp site.  Quite close, seracs are collapsing in the icefall, and crevasses opening up.  Behind us, towers a cliff with stones and small boulders hurtling down from time to time.  Andy has just looked in to say that the nearest stone stopped only 20 feet away.

April 29, Camps 1-3.    For the first time, the early morning weather looked unpromising and the sky was overcast, the sun having a job to shine through.  Nevertheless, we set out from Camp 1 at about 6.45am and, after the usual trudge reached Camp 2 in 2 hours.  We had a rest here and then continued up to Camp 3.  Again the snow was soft and the going tiring.  We met Arthur and Dan on their way down.

We finally reached Camp 3 about 10.30 am in poor visibility and a very cold wind.  Turned in and had some soup.  My feet are very cold and I can’t get them warm, as the lilo is saturated and the sleeping bag not much better.  Snow drives in through the sleeve whenever the entrance is opened.  Andy placed some overboots under my feet by way of insulation and this has made a lot of difference.

April 30, Camp 3.    This terrible day started with difficulties with the primus stove.  As a result, we had little breakfast.  Still, it was a beautiful morning and, in view of the behaviour of the stove, Andy and I decided that it would not be fair to ask Crosby and George to say here at Camp 3, as arranged, by way of support to us at Camp 4.  Accordingly, we set off for Camp 4 with a box and a bag of food, expecting to meet them.

It was an interesting route through the icefall, finishing high on its right flank under some cliffs.  There followed a most tedious traverse in soft snow, to Camp 4.  We could see Crosby’s party on the glacier way beyond, but they had not left us any note.  I suppose they wanted to take advantage of the sudden change of weather.  We left them a note and then set off back.

To our surprise, when we reached Camp 3 the stove burst into life, so we had a brew.  However, we hadn’t been there much more than on hour when George turned up with his dreadful story.

He, Crosby, Mingma and Myla had been passing beneath a hanging glacier when the snout of it broke loose.  In seconds they were all hurled into a crevasse.  Somehow or other, George managed to climb out.  He scraped and dug for a long time but was unable to extricate the rope to Crosby or reach anyone else.  We fear all are lost.

As soon as we could, Pemba and I set off down to Camp 1 where we found the others. Dan and Ang Temba set off, at once, to Base Camp for entrenching tools.  I shared a tent with Arthur.

It was a melancholy gathering.  We all felt so completely helpless and yet, praying for a miracle.  The Sherpas chanted some mournful tune all night and I got no sleep.