Hot Rock Spanish Style
John Middleton
A review of some climbing areas in the Alicante region of Spain visited by the author earlier this year.
Within an hours drive of Alicante it is possible to find almost as much first class rock climbing as there is in the whole of Britain – additionally, it is warm all year round, it is usually dry, the rock is invariably massively solid limestone, it is varied, and more importantly to us it is the domain of the sports climber.
Sports climbing uses the French grading system of technical difficulty which is roughly two places higher than our own e.g. English 5b equates to French 6a. In Britain sports climbs can only be found on indoor climbing walls and on the occasional loose quarry. In Spain they are on many major cliffs. The routes are usually of a sustained technical standard and follow a line of bolts at 9′ to 12′ spacings. This means that all that has to be carried is perhaps a dozen quick draws and because the protection aspect of the route is minimised the standard of climbing can be pushed up by one or even two grades. Most sports climbs start from around 5 (HVS 5a) and go as high as you can take.
SELLA. This is a beautiful series of secluded valleys just 3 km from the attractive village of Sella and 30 minutes inland from Benidorm (an excellent base for the region). There are currently around 100 routes but there is potential for at least ten times as many. Cliffs are just one minute from the car and are generally 70′ to 80′ high on vertical walls. The climbing is truly dreamlike being on small sharp finger pockets and with quite amazing friction. We did about eight routes, each one seemingly better than the last but on reflection our favourites were “El Vuelo de la Maquina” (6b) and “Tu quien eres?” an easier option at 6a.
SAX. Another idyllic inland area 45 minutes from Benidorm and just 3 km from the attractive village and castle of the same name. Nearby is a salt lake, an exposed salt dome with excellent karst features and some short erosian valleys with beds of exposed gypsum. The climbing involves a steep five minute walk to the crag which consists of a 200′ high face and an 80′ pinnacle. The routes and rock is similar to Sella but perhaps not so sustained. Most climbs are numbered on the cliff and we particularly liked number 16 on the overhanging pinnacle (75′ 6a+), and number 2 direct (140′ 6a+/6a-). Other nearby cliffs are currently being developed.
BARRENCO DEL MASCARET. This is a spectacular gorge just 15 minutes from Benidorm and five minutes from the sea through which both the Valencia to Alicante Autopiste and N332 roads go. The routes are up to 730′ long and most have a considerable grip factor as the starting point is from one of the road bridges already over 100′ from the bottom of the gorge! At the rather dismal bottom are several very hard short routes. We chose the excellent 7 pitch Via Sulfida with four brilliant middle pitches of 6a/6a-/6a-/5+ on amazing rock with heart stopping views.
DALLE D OLLA. This was the smallest cliff we visited with just about 15 routes on it. It is situated high on the Altea Hills Estate close to Barrenco del Mascaret. It was the crag we least liked due to the highly polished rock. Other climbers do speak well of it so maybe we were just getting tired by then.
TOIX SEA CLIFF. On the Toix massif between Benidorm and Calpe are four extensive areas of top quality sports climb cliffs whilst along one edge are the sea cliffs. These are most definitely adventure climbs (and are graded accordingly). The kilometre or so of climbs are reached from either traverses or abseils. We did the superb slightly overhanging El Dorado 1, a fine exercise in bridging (E2 4b/5b/5b) and the strenuously overhanging arete of Via Missing Link, perhaps the hardest and most spectacular route of the week (370′ 4b/5b/5c E3).
PENON DE IFACH. At one end of Calpe, next to several great apartment blocks is this incredible hunk of rock nearly 1100′ high with routes almost all around it. These are again adventure routes and a normal English rack is required. The climbs have variable pitches on good but differing rock. We did one route here (it took up most of the day), the ten pitch Via Gomez-Cano. Its overall grade is E2 and one true adventure pitch includes either aid moves through an overhang. The ninth crux pitch of 5c is also truly in another world as the key moves are carried out with 1000′ of space below! It is best to carry trainers up the climbs as it is a good half hour down the descent path.
PUIG CAMPANA. If you are a traditional alpine climber then this is the crag for you. It is situated 30 minutes inland from Benidorm above the village of Finestrat and involves a 45 minute uphill walk (!). Climbing is on the impressive South Face and like most alpine routes includes some loose rock (the only loose rock we ever came across). There is a classic three star severe, the 1200′ long Espero Sur Central which roughly follows a ridge but we did the 640′ long 5 pitch Diedre Magico, E2 5a/5a/5a/5a/5b. This follows a groove up the right side of the face and provides excellent situations particularly on the last pitch. In true alpine tradition the descent is by four long abseils complete with frequent rope snags. Several very hard sports routes have been put up on the wall just to the right.
These are places visited during a 7 day stay but there are easily as many recognised crags again and twenty times as much virgin rock. So, if you are fed up with Britain’s freezing slush and lack of sun, give it a try, we are going back! Costs in 1995 for flight from Leeds, room, full board with car hire were from £225
The recognised guide book to the region, Chris Crags “Costa Blanca Climbs”, is currently being updated.