Munken (805m)

Cliff Large

An ascent by Cliff Large, Howard Humphreys and Roy Pomfret as part of
the Lofoten group contribution to the Norwegian Meet of 1992.

The second group, Howard, Roy and I, transported by boat from
Vindstad to the hydroelectric station at the head of Forsfjorden, aimed
to follow the path marked on the Vest-Lofoten tourist map round to the
new (1991) Munkenbu hut west of Munken.  This appeared to be a gentler
approach than that described by Spilsbury which started further north
from Kjerkfjorden.  Ascent to the col at Rergate was eased by the use
of 560+ wooden steps constructed to assist in the installation of new
water pipes for the hydroelectric station.  The path climbed quite
steeply to near the top of the 448 metre top between Ternnesvatnet and
Krokvatnet.  It turned in an easterly direction close to rock outcrops
at the north end of Moldtinden.  Small cairns marked the route but at
times they were widely spaced and difficult to find, particularly in
boggy parts.

From near the hut, the three peaks of Munken are clearly visible.  
The main peak, the height of which is not marked on the map, is a
pyramid of sound granite about 150 metres in height, vertical or
overhanging to the east, very steep on the north and south, but with a
gentler-sloping west ridge which appeared to be the easiest route to the
summit.  The direct route to the base of the west ridge is steep with
dense vegetation on slabby rocks.  An easier route which we followed
was to transverse across the slope in a northerly direction before
turning south east to cross a small boulder field and a large snow patch
to the base of the ridge.  Some parts over vegetation can be climbed
easily.  Overall, the climb required about six short, roped pitches
which were ably led by Howard.  The hardest and most exposed (D to VD),
about two-thirds of the way up, involved a traverse round a nose on the
ridge mainly using hand holds to reach an easier slope with much
vegetation.  This is probably the same move described by Spilsbury as a
hand traverse even though he approached the peak from a different
direction.  The actual summit with a small cairn is a large block about
two metres in height, climbed via a wide crack.

Apart from the summit cairn the only sign of previous ascents was two
slings round a belay block which had been used for abseiling.  One
sling, in good condition, was used for the first abseil.  The descent
involved four abseils, each of about twenty metres.  Good belay points
for abseils were found after some gardening.  Each required a sling to
be left behind as it was impossible to pull the rope round the rock due
to its surface roughness.  The total time for the ascent and descent of
the final peak was about 4½ hours.  This could be shortened with a
smaller, fitter party.

The return journey involved retracing our steps to the hydroelectric
station then walking along the north side of Forsfjorden to Vindstad and
back to the camp site.  A traverse round the west slopes of Munken and
Veinestinden to Rergate was considered, but ruled out due to the unknown
nature of the terrain and the rain which started just as we finished
descending the summit peak.  The maxim was "better the devil you
know".  The final sting in the tail was the walk along the side of
the fjord.  This started about midnight when, although it was daylight,
it was not bright enough to see the depth of the vegetation-filled gaps
in the boulder field.  Much stumbling and clambering through wet
vegetation, at times head-high, and over, round and even under boulders
in what Howard described as horizontal climbing eventually brought us to
more open ground.  About 3½ to 4 hours was taken to travel about 1½
miles, a measure of the difficulties of going over such ground.

As we returned to the camp, fields around Vindstad were being mowed
and hay gathered.  A local, apparently returning from an all-night
party, insisted on taking a photograph of Howard and Roy using a Kodak
fun camera (the local offer on cornflakes).

A total of about 17½ hours was taken between leaving the
hydroelectric station at the start and returning to camp.  In
retrospect the ideal starting point would have been the new hut at the
base of Munken.  Even starting from Servagen and following the footpath
shown on the tourist map would most likely have been easier and
quicker.  However, once committed to camping above Bunessfjord we had
little alternative to the route used.

Finally, some mention of the wildlife seems appropriate.  The
commonest birds on the mountain were ptarmigan with one flock of seven
seen on the snow patch.  Other birds which could have been sea eagles
were heard but not seen.  A single large hare ran across the same snow
patch and a solitary otter was seen swimming in the fjord.