Bisplua or Bishop’s Mitre

Howard Humphreys

An account of the ascent by Howard, Jason Humphreys, Cliff Large and Paul Linford of this 597m peak as part of the Lofoten groups contribution to the Norwegian Meet’ of 1992.

“What’s the weather like?”
“Damp.”
“Again!”
“Yes, but it looks bright down by the fjord, but black out to sea.”
“Should we go and have a look at Bisplua?”
“Yes, we might as well.”

So, from our wet tents on the sandy col between Bunesfjorden and the beach at Buneset, we set off

“What’s the route?”
Slingsby did it from Vindstad.”

A ridge from Vindstad runs West in a continuous curve turning North and meets a large rock face at the base of the Bishop’s Mitre, ie. vertical.  The ridge looked interesting and logical …………at least it did from a distance!!

The cloud was low on the ridge as we made our way round the North side of the Mitre to start the ridge.  A long grass rake tempted us as a short cut, eliminating most of the ridge, but closer examination revealed the start and finish to be possible, – but for another day.  At the ridge we roped up and on to the rock.   No go! The rock just crumbled away.

On the way back the cloud lifted and the col to the West of the summit looked promising.  Following a stream up a steep grass scree with much loose rock and blocks, we reached the col, roped up and after half-a-dozen short pitches and much gardening, we sat on a feather bed of moss, perhaps 18 inches deep, on the small flat summit.  It must be years since it was last climbed.  Four abseils down to the col and a steep descent took us back to camp.

Bisplua 597m.
Take track from Vindstad up Bunesfjorden for 2 km.  Turn left up river and steep grass and rock slope to col.  Turn left and up several short rock pitches to summit.  Descend by same route.  6 hours.   Easy.