Arabian Chippings

by John Lovett

Qatar – February to September 1977

Qatar is A fully independent sovereign state the size of Wales, lying midway down the Arabian Gulf on the southern side and it is mostly composed of limestone. The North West was of most interest, having a much indented shore line and sea cliffs, extending some 30 Kms. in length and about 70 metres in height. Technically the climbs were less than difficult standard but local conditions made even the short routes exciting. Imagine climbing in clothing more suitable for the Cuillins in winter as protection against the heat, rather than shirt and shorts, with no cool breeze as a relief when you get to the top. The hinterland is rich in archaeological finds, where evidence of settlements dating back to 2,000 years B.C. have been found. This is also an area where the rare Arabian Ibex is to be found.

Saudi Arabia, Al-Hassa Province – September 1977 onwards.

This area has some of the best examples of the Turkish dominance up to their overthrow by Lawrence of Arabia. There are the remains of important fortifications and irrigation systems and the Al-Hassa Oasis is presently being developed for modern agriculture. Over large areas are the remains of the massive sand deposits hardened by the sun and shaped by the wind. It is best described as a mini-Colorado landscape and one can easily imagine John Wayne riding out of any of the numerous valleys.

Ascents of these very unstable outcrops call for unusual climbing methods. After a scree scramble the main wall of average height of some 30 metres has to be tackled. One starts up the many fissures and literally quarries upwards rather like the final climb out of Great End gully in good snow conditions. Of great interest on the summit is the minute plant life and ants living without water on bare ground in extreme temperatures.

South of Hofuf many of the sandstone outcrops have been developed into living quarters and judging by the amount of excavation have been in use for centuries. Whole communities literally live inside the mountain, along with sheep, goats and camels, and what looks most inconsistent are modern four-wheel drive vehicles parked outside cave entrances. One must not be seen taking photographs, and an Arab guide is essential.

Rule two of the Club has in part been fulfilled by my ‘Chippings.’