Sulitjelma ’75
by S. V. Bugg
The prime objective of the expedition known as Sulitjelma ’75 was to produce a geological map of the area North East of Sulitjelma, in Arctic Norway.
The team was composed of four undergraduates from University College, London, (U.C.L.) with assistance from Dr. Roger Mason and Mike Chambers, a graduate from U.C.L. It is usual for undergraduates at U.C.L. to undertake six weeks field mapping in the British Isles, and submit their work for assessment, the results counting greatly towards the final degree. However Andy, Gary, Mark and I felt that mapping in little known country, geologically speaking, would be more enterprising and satisfying.
Hence, after nearly a whole year of tedious planning, we set out on the afternoon of August 5th from a house in the copper-mining village of Sulitjelma. We were heading for our camp-site, fourteen miles away, just over the Norwegian-Swedish border. Our route took us up a well marked path to some disused mine buildings, and then across a steep grassy hillside. From the disused mine buildings we were in very thick mist, but the path was well marked with red ‘T’s’ painted on upturned rocks. At the top of the steep section of path we came to a raging torrent. We could not see the far bank, and it seemed unlikely that the path crossed the river, so we followed the river upstream. After a short while it became apparent that we had lost the path. Not in the slightest perturbed we fixed our position on the map, or so we thought, and continued on a compass bearing. At 8 p.m. I refused to walk any further, since we were clearly lost, and suggested putting up the tents. The following morning dawned clear and sunny—enabling us to locate our position on the map. We were a mere fourteen miles south-west of where we thought we were, with a mountain chain and the Sulitjelma glacier between us and the point we were heading for! Still undaunted we shouldered 80 lb. packs and walked towards the Sulitjelma glacier, gaining access to the ice by means of a snow ramp, a small tributary glacier and finally a short rock wall. Crossing the glacier took an exhausting six hours. Finally we reached the col beside Suliskongen, the highest peak in Arctic Norway, and could see down the far side to Lake Stadak, our ultimate objective. The descent from the col was quick, almost too quick as we very nearly walked over a cornice. Eventually we descended the steep back wall of the corrie on a snow slope, and then walked across the moraine to Lake Stadak.
By the time the tents were pitched it was well past midnight, but the sun still shone, if only weakly. The following day Andy, Mark and I returned to the village, following the correct route, to collect more food and equipment. In the meantime Gary and Mike moved the camp from the west end of Lake Stadak to the permanent site, at the east end. A day later the three of us returned to camp once again after an eventful walk in thick mist.
The camp was now well established and fully stocked. Before we started working, however, we decided to build a bridge across the river separating the camp from the area to be studied by Andy and Mark. Stepping stones were ruled out, since the river was too deep and too fast, so we opted for a rope bridge. I waded across to the far bank to look for a suitable anchor. The only possible site was in a small gorge, where I could get half-way back across the river by using stepping stones. Mark attempted to join me, by leaping ten feet across foaming white water. He very nearly made it, but not quite! Gary hauled him out on the end of a climbing rope—very cold, wet and bedraggled. Bridge building ceased, and Andy and Mark waded the river each day to get to and from their areas.
For the next fortnight we fell into a routine. Up by 7.30 a.m. to get breakfast, dubbin boots, work on maps, and then finally out into the field by 10 a.m. When mapping we worked on our own, often miles apart, and miles from the camp. Sometimes one felt very isolated and intimidated by the stark craggy peaks towering up above us. Some days were too wet or misty for work in the field, so we festered in tents—reading, writing and playing cards. At 6 p.m., whether we had been out or not, we started cooking the evening meal, a fairly lengthy procedure. Sometimes the gas cylinders had to be heated before the pressure was high enough to produce a flame sufficient to boil water.
At the end of the first fortnight, Gary, Mike and I returned to the village. Gary and I were collecting more food and Mike was to start work on his Ph.D., working in an area further to the south. While we were away Andy and Mark took advantage of a sunny day to climb Suliskongen. By all accounts the route was excellent, providing a good mixture of scrambling and climbing on snow and ice.
Gary and I once again returned to camp carrying loads of at least 80 lbs. The route from the village to the camp was a distance of about fourteen miles and took in a small glacier. The average time for the journey was eight to nine hours with packs, and five to six hours unladen.
The second fortnight of the expedition continued in the familiar routine. The weather deteriorated day by day. More days were spent festering in tents waiting for gales to blow out. The nights were becoming longer and colder. On one starlit night we were treated to a fabulous display of the Northern Lights—great curtains of green were cut by rapidly moving bands of purple light, a memorable sight. Towards the end of the fourth week Dr. Roger Mason came out to the camp and was treated to some of the worst weather we experienced. He had planned to spend some time with each of us in our areas. Instead he spent most of the time sitting in tents drinking coffee and talking about various geological topics.
The final fortnight of the expedition began. Mark and Andy left for the village for more food and gaz returning three days later, after an exhausting round of all night parties. The day after they returned Roger Mason left.
The weather became bitterly cold. The small lakes and streams froze over. Each day the snowline moved down the mountains, until one morning we woke up to find our tents totally covered. Working in the field became a painful test of determination. In the morning one would have to put on boots coated inside and out with ice, and then walk through snow drifts, sometimes stepping into snow-covered pools of water or small streams. Once in the area to be mapped one could spend perhaps twenty minutes taking readings with a compass—chronometer and writing a few brief notes before becoming so cold that it was necessary to walk about for a while to warm up.
Fortunately this cold spell lasted for only a week or so, and we were able to do some full days’ work before the expedition finished.
Exactly six weeks after we left the village of Sulitjelma we were preparing to return there. On Sunday, 14th September we cleared up the camp-site and started our return journey. Our first problem came ten minutes after leaving the campsite. Gary fell in a river we were wading. He was not only completely soaked, but damaged a knee in the fall. However some first-aid and dry clothes soon put matters right. Then it began to rain. After an hour’s walking we were all soaked; none of the waterproofs were a match for the lashing gale that was blowing us on our way. Our next problem Was another river, normally one easily crossed, but now trans-formed into a foaming torrent. Since the alternative to crossing the river was a very lengthy detour, we waded across.
The next leg of our journey was a fairly soggy plod to the foot of a small glacier. We stormed up the hard snow slopes and on to the flat surface. Here we took things more easily, since compass navigation was required, due to low clouds. Andy and I were strolling along in deep, wet snow talking about Andy’s favourite person, Beethoven, when suddenly I was on hard ice streaming with water. I slipped and fell, as did Andy. Mark appeared out of the mist and somehow found the sight of his two prostrate companions floundering around rather amusing. In turn we found it amusing when Mark unintentionally joined us. Gary was last to arrive, and refused to come on to ice to help us, until Mark stood up and then fell over with a cracking noise as his head hit the ice. Gary rushed to Mark’s aid, and, predictably, fell over. Mark indicated the source of the cracking noise—a plastic cup strapped to his rucksack had shattered.
We soon had crampons fitted on and safely negotiated the rest of the glacier. The final leg of the journey was all down hill, and completed very quickly.
Once back in the village we set about making up for our six weeks’ isolation. Fresh bread and milk, hot water and bottles of beer were all much appreciated, and consumed in great quantity. The following night a party was organised by the young people in the village in our honour. At 4.30 a.m.
the last group left for their homes, in order to be back before their fathers came off the night shift at the copper mine at 5 a.m. At 10 a.m. we were woken up by sun streaming into the bedroom. We decided to take advantage of the sun, and spend our last day in the mountains.
At 11 a.m. we were on our way, perhaps more than a little bleary-eyed, to the top of Vardetoppen (5,870 ft.). This splendid peak was snow-covered, and from the direction we were approaching, had a perfectly pyramidal shape. Our route lay up one of the steep ridges, and involved a great deal of scrambling. From the summit we could see Suliskongen, our old camp site, and other familiar features. East from the summit was a narrow, castellated ridge, leading to Stortoppen. Regrettably we had neither time nor equipment to traverse this ridge, which undoubtedly would make a fine winter route. To the north the ground dropped vertically to the glacier we had crossed only a few days previously. To the south we could pick out our route of the first two days, and were able to see where we had gone wrong. Having spent some considerable time on the summit taking photographs of the view and of each other, we descended to the village, returning as night fell. The expedition had finished.
Members of Expedition: Andrew Griffiths, Gary Brisdon, Mark Fey and Stephen Bugg.