After The Accident

by W. Anderson

Spenceley left Base Camp on 5th May; after much preparation and the usual last minute delays the party finally got away at 9 a.m.

Out of the original 14 members of the party eight now remained at Base; Wilson, Jones, Tallon and myself with the Sherpas, Pemba Tensing, Ang Temba, Pemba Gyalgen and Lakpa Tsering.  Spenceley expected to be away for two weeks.  During that time our task was to visit the remaining survey stations at Base East, Base West and Heartache, the second station on the East ridge of the Dorje Lakpa Glacier, and thus to re-draw the map to the stage at which it had been completed before the accident. In addition to this we hoped to cross the Dorje Lakpa Glacier and estabhsh a camp on the far side from which, in addition to survey work, we could investigate Monica Jackson’s suggestion of a high level route to the Langtang and possibly attempt such a route after Spenceley’s return.  To establish the existence of such a route and the further possibility of explora­tion in the Langtang with a return journey down the unknown Langtang Gorge would provide some consolation for the loss of the Big White Peak.

In order to carry out our immediate programme it was neces­sary to re-visit the site of Camp II on the Phurbi Chyachumbu glacier to recover tents, stoves and assorted gear which had been dumped there after the accident.  I estimated that the whole party would be required for this task and it was planned to leave about 5.30 a.m. on the day following Spenceley’s departure, in order to be clear of the ice-fall above Camp I before the sun got to work on the cliffs above.  Over early breakfast it was agreed that the food dumped at Camp II need not be recovered and that Wilson and I could spend our time more usefully in recon­noitring the crossing of the Dorje Lakpa glacier.

We were able to see the carrying party off shortly after 5.30 a.m. on 6th May, whilst we ourselves got away about 6 a.m.  We followed the route Spenceley and I had used on the approach to our first survey station.  This time we were properly v acclimatised and although the going was steep it was possible using crampons to reach the fork in the gully in 1½ hours.  Most of the snow had gone from the upper section of the gully and we scrambled up over steep grass and boulders to the col where a few oddly arranged stones marked Monica Jackson’s earlier visit.  We looked eagerly across the Dorje Lakpa glacier to the South ridge of the mountain which bounds the glacier on its Eastern edge, but the clouds were early and were rapidly enfolding the ridge.  Spenceley and I had on two previous occasions seen this ridge but had been so busily engaged in survey, in order to complete our panoramic observations before the clouds appeared, that we had not studied the approaches to it nor the possibilities of a camp site on its slopes.   Wilson and I were denied the opportunity on this occasion too, but by descending on crampons to a promontory a few hundred feet below our col we were able to see a possible route down to the glacier on our side and a route across it to moraine heaps on the opposite edge.  This was all we could do though we waited in vain for the clouds to clear from the opposite slopes. We returned in worsening snow to our col and glissaded down the slopes up which we had climbed that morning.  Since we were early and had had an easy day we spent a httle time exploring the tarns and unroofed buildings of Pomba Serebu before returning to Base Camp.  The snow had now left this region and we were able to identify the camp site which Monica Jackson’s party had occupied two years previously.

We were feeling happier now than we had done since the accident.  We felt that we could after to-day turn our backs on the Phurbi Chyachumbu glacier and its tragic memories and look forward hopefully to regaining our confidence by work in a new area; work which we hoped would be a lasting tribute to Fox and our two Sherpas and which would justify the faith which had inspired the Expedition right from its inception to the day of the tragedy.

Wilson and I talked on these lines as we wandered slowly into Base Camp.  We planned to have a light lunch and then deliberate over the evening meal we would share with the carrying party whom we half expected would have returned already.  A note we found on the survey box, which served as our table in the dinine annex, shattered our renewed enthusiasm.  It had been written by Tallon “Another accident.  Lakpa and Dan at Camp I.  Lakpa with broken leg below the knee and bad cuts.  Dan has dislocated shoulder and possibly other injuries …”

The bottom again fell out of our world.  With heavy hearts we made soup and after a hasty meal I set off for Camp I with the medical supplies and odd items of food Tallon had requested in his note.  It was late in the day for such a journey.   Snow condi­tions were bad and the couloir more unpleasant than ever.  I had a nasty moment when both my footholds gave way simultaneously on the traverse into the first couloir.  The fixed rope proved its worth on this occasion.  It was a sad party that I found at Camp I.  Tallon had of course already been back to Base to collect medical supplies and food and under Jones’ direction, had made a wonderful job of bandaging and treating the patients.

Both patients were extremely cheerful.  Lakpa had no com­plaint about himself but was pathetically worried about my torch which I had entrusted to his keeping and which he had mislaid.

In spite of his suffering his main concern throughout his disability was that he could no longer be of service to the Expedition.  Jones was cheerful though in considerable pain and was very well aware of the seriousness of the situation.  The route between Camp I and Base was difficult for fit men and the prospect of getting two badly injured men over this route and subsequently to Katmandu was not at all encouraging.

The accident had happened on the steep slopes approaching Camp I after crossing the second couloir on the outward journey.  Tallon and Jones had been at the head of the party and so had not seen Lakpa fall.  The following is the probable sequence of events leading to the accident.  This is based on the accounts of Tallon and Jones and questions asked of the Sherpas:—

“The accident occurred whilst the party was crossing a slope of frozen grass interspersed with thin snow where a rope would have offered no protection.  They were within 300 yards of Camp I and the time about 7.15 hours.  It seems that Lakpa Tsering slipped and that Pemba Gyalgen tried un­successfully to save him.  Both rolled down the slope until Pemba Gyalgen was able to arrest his fall by the use of his ice-axe.  Lakpa Tsering continued his slide out of control.  The party were moving in line and Dan Jones, who was second man following Arthur Tallon, was disturbed by the noise of the fall and in turning to ascertain its cause he too lost his balance and fell down the slope.  He tried unsuccessfully to arrest his slide with his ice-axe and lost control.  Both he and Lakpa fell over a small cliff and disappeared from sight.  Tallon and the three Sherpas found them close together and both conscious, having fallen about 200 feet.

They were moved to Camp I without delay, where they were made comfortable in the tents.”

After Tallon had given Jones morphia we made an attempt to “reduce” his arm (to use his own terminology).  After three painful attempts the arm which had hitherto laid close to his side had been reduced to an odd looking shape that stuck out.  How­ever Jones assured us that if not successful our manipulations had done no harm but that he must be resigned to having it out of place until he could reach a hospital when an operation would put it right.  He was in frequent and great pain which fortunately grew less as the days went by.

Having seen that the party had all that was needed for the night there was little else to be done and for the safety of those returning to Base Camp there was no time to lose.  We felt that Tallon would be of most value in continuing with his care for the patients.   The Sherpas did not seem to feel the same need to stay with Lakpa and it was with apparent reluctance than Ang Temba at last agreed to do so.  Pemba Gyalgen and Pemba Tensing could not shake the snow of Camp I from their feet quickly enough and we were soon travelling fast towards Base Camp.  The Sherpas were quite justified in their anxiety to be away.  It was 5.30 p.m. when we left, the journey was completed to the accompaniment of vivid lightning with soft snow falling and it was getting dark when we got in.

The following day, 7th May, Wilson and Pemba Tensing went to Camp I with more supplies.  The storm was earlier that afternoon but Wilson returned by 1 p.m. with Ang Temba.  I had begun improvising a stretcher using ration box lids and some spars Pemba Gyalgen provided.  Our tools were on the Phurbi Chyachumbu glacier so that improvisation was the keynote and twine the means of securing.  With reinforcing spars added the following day by Nima and Tensing Lama the stretcher was ready and subsequently survived the journey to Katmandu without mishap.

A conference with Nima and Tensing Lama, Ang Temba acting as interpreter, produced a plan of action which gave us renewed hope.  Our four Sherpas with the help of Tensing Lama undertook to carry Lakpa back to Base from Camp I on their backs using an “Everest” carrier.  This was an undertaking which I had hardly thought possible but it was obviously the only way to make this difficult traverse.  The stretcher would probably be used for the latter part of this journey where the ground was less steep.  Tomorrow, 8th May, Pemba Gyalgen and I would prepare the route as well as possible particularly on the traverse into the main couloir, and spend the night at Camp I.  Tallon and Pemba Tensing would return that day to Base and the following day, 9th May, all would return to Camp I early in the morning and bring Lakpa back to Base.  Wilson would spend that night with Jones at Camp I.  The following day, 10th May, all would return to Camp I leaving one Sherpa with Lakpa at Base, and bring Jones back; he felt sure he could walk back though at that stage he had great difficulty in moving about in the vicinity of Camp I even with assistance.  Naturally getting him into and out of his sleeping bag was a long and for him a painful business.  In helping him to compose himself for sleep the tent was almost wrecked on more than one occasion.  Still he made a wonderful recovery and in the event negotiated the journey without undue distress.  True on the dreaded traverse out of the main couloir a scene was enacted which could hardly have been surpassed in the most sensational of climbing stories or films.  From my stance in the centre of the traverse I was in a good position to see Jones’ feet shoot off their insecure holds as he ducked to avoid stones falling from above.  His bad arm must have had a nasty jolt as he fell against the slope.  The piton began slowly to draw out on being asked to support this un­intended load.  Fortunately prompt action by Tallon and Ang Temba restored equilibrium and quick movement out of the danger zone followed.

By comparison Lakpa’s passage the previous day had been uneventful but like any job well done, the smoothness of the operation disguised the efficiency with which difficulties were overcome.  Our Sherpas with help from Tensing Lama, who met them at the main couloir in his bare feet, accepted the challenge in a magnificent way.  There were two false starts, after each of which Lakpa’s position on the frame was re-adjusted until the most convenient position for the porter and the most endurable position for Lakpa were found; “endurable” because comfort was the last thing one would associate with Lakpa’s position.  He endured all things without complaint but the way he gripped my hand at one point whilst waiting for Tallon and Ang Temba to fix a rope bore mute testimony to his stoicism.  It was good to see him safely installed in his tent at Base Camp though he was not really happy until Jones arrived the following day.

Meanwhile Nima Lama had recruited twelve men from Tempethang to carry Lakpa to Katmandu.  These men arrived the same evening as Jones, 24 hours early, so once again we felt like inmates of an open zoo ! Unfortunately unlike most occupants of zoos we had to feed our visitors.  Still their high spirits and practical joking were a tonic to our overstrained nerves.  However our distress could not have been very apparent as Jones complained that his journey to Base was made much more painful by the almost continuous laughter he was forced to undergo.  The tensions of the last few days were now relaxing and our Tempethang men provided a welcome diversion from our own worries.  The faces of those watching Tallon’s operations to Lakpa’s leg and face under Jones’ direction were a study.  Any attempt to record this on cine film was doomed as their attention was immediately distracted by the noise of the camera.  The stretcher was strengthened and suitably tested by strapping two unwilling victims on it and lifting it off the ground.  In spite of the groans of the stretcher and the shrieks of the victims the test was pronounced successful.

Wilson left Base Camp with Jones and Lakpa on the 12th May; George Spenceley would now be in Katmandu and was expected back on the 19th.  It was quite likely that both parties would travel over the Nauling Lekh and therefore would most probably meet in four or five days time.  Meanwhile Tallon and I had one week in which to complete the survey and if possible recon­noitre the high level route to the Langtang, the possibility of which Monica Jackson had suggested to us.

The survey stations on the Phurbi Chyachumbu glacier had been completed before Spenceley left for Katmandu but to bring the new map to the same state of completion as the original one we would again have to visit Base East and West and a station in the vicinity of Heartache.  To complete the necessary re­sections and thus position many peaks on which we had only two rays, and in some cases one, we had to establish a new station on the West side of the Dorje Lakpa glacier, which meant that we must locate a camp on that side of the glacier, which we hoped if time permitted to use as a base for our reconnaissance towards the Langtang.

We left at 6.15 a.m. on the 13th May with the survey gear, one Black’s mountain tent and Fox’s biouac tent.  We had food for only two days but in spite of this limitation Pemba was carrying over 50 lbs. and Tallon and I each between 45 and 50 lbs. Many times we had occasion to regret the weight and bulk of the survey gear but never more than on this occasion when the penalty we paid was not only our toil and sweat but the restric­tion of our food to a minimum which did not allow for being tent bound by bad weather nor would we be able to seize a chance of good weather for our reconnaissance.

We were up at our col in two hours using crampons for much of the way.  Visibility was good and we could trace a line along a broad and not too steep snow shelf which led from the moraine above the far side of the glacier leftwards towards a hidden col which we presumed to be the one said by Monica Jackson to give access to the Langtang.  The upper part of this route was hidden but we judged the shelf to continue on steeper snow into a shallow gully leading to the col.  Before turning out of sight into this gully a line of steep crags caused our shelf first to steepen then to form an almost level platform above these crags.  This platform seemed free of fallen stones and was the obvious site for our camp.  It was a long way and perhaps 2,000 feet above the point at which we would cross the glacier.  To reach this spot with our present loads on an unreconnoitred route was an ambitious project, but we were early in the day and feeling fit.  Pemba wanted to know if we were to camp on our present col but we assured him otherwise and proceeded on crampons steeply down on good snow towards the cliffs where Wilson and I with the eye of faith had forecast the possibility of a gully giving access to the glacier itself.  We found such a gully; no more than a steep scree gully but menaced by unstable crags in its upper section; owing to our early start we were down before the day’s stone falls began.  An occasional stone warned us of the need for haste but we were soon in safety on the glacier.  The glacier at this point was dry and we made towards the opposite moraines in an erratic path dictated by the many but fortunately narrow crevasses.

Between us and the point from which it would be possible to climb the main moraine and get on to the snow shelf on which our subsequent route lay, medial moraines intersected our route.  A small ice fall corriing in on our right was no doubt responsible for these.  Erratically disposed ridges of moraine solidly welded together by ice do not form an ideal highway and we found this section, though short, most trying, particularly as we were now exposed to the direct rays of the sun on our backs and the reflections from so many white surfaces in our faces.  Before we embarked on this section however an enormous boulder perched on a column of ice which had melted away to leave the boulder overhanging on the south side offered tempting shade.  We took advantage of this to have our second breakfast and whilst thus employed heard the gurgling of running water.  A few blows with an ice-axe revealed a stream running under the ice close by and we were able to fill water bottles and drink to repletion.  Naturally enough this became a recognised stopping place on all subsequent journeys, welcome shade, unlimited water without the need to melt snow or carry full water bottles and at a point half way between Base Camp and our Dorje Lakpa camp was too fortunate a combination to resist.

We reached our shelf by 12 noon having negotiated the main moraine at a point where it was thinly bound together by moss and grass.  Our further route followed the shelf to our left though at these close quarters it seemed more a field of soft heart­breaking snow.  We had perhaps a climb of 1,500 feet and a distance of 1½ miles to cover; it was a matter of determined slogging.  Tallon seemed fitter than either Pemba or I and took the lead.  We came in sight of the rocks with the ledge above, which we had selected as our camp site.  It seemed a long way, the slope steepened and we roped up to traverse above a deep gully which dropped steeply to the Rakti Khola a few thousand feet below.  The snow was not good and on subsequent journeys we avoided this section by a slightly longer route going up to the right and approaching our shelf from a shallow col to the north and slightly above it.  Though a httle longer this route was easier and safer in bad snow, in fact a glissade was possible on the return journey.  The psychological, not to mention the physical,

advantages of approaching camp in this manner are not to be discounted.  We knew we had done well to push a camp so far in one journey—the col could not be much more than one hour away and we relaxed whilst Pemba prepared our dinner.

We had a clear sky and good frost that night and got away about 6.30 a.m.  on 14th May with light loads carrying only the survey gear and personal gear for the day.  We rounded the corner just beyond our camp and found that the snow did indeed continue in the form of a shallow gully to a col to the right of a rocky peak which we identified as the one Monica Jackson and Elizabeth Stark had chmbed.  We reached this on crampons in about one hour and looked across to new peaks—the outlines of the Langtang group, the higher peaks of which were not visible.  A steep snow gully dropped below our feet but a series of glacier ledges did indeed seem to offer a route to the Langtang whilst one or two dividing spurs might lead into the Langtang gorge itself.  Prospects seemed hopeful but a reconnaissance was necessary to establish whether these ledges could be reached safely from our col.  There were one or two sections, particularly where some smooth looking slabs obtruded which might prove difficult or even demand a long descent and re-ascent if a route were to be found.  However this was all speculation and would need to be put to the test.  Our immediate need—and no time was to be lost—was to find a survey point which would enable us to locate our position from previous stations and fixes, and to obtain rays on to the new peaks we could see.  Our present col was useless for the former purpose and so we descended a little, traversing under Monica Jackson’s peak (which would have made a good survey point but was too tough a proposition to climb from our col) and so reached the col on the other side of this peak which the ladies’ party had used as a starting point for their rock climb.  We found an ideal survey station on the col itself from which we also had an excellent view at close range of the formidable rock and ice cliffs on the South face of the Dorje Lakpa peak.  We saw the true summit now quite clearly for the first time, the ice spire which we had in our earher survey mistaken for the summit was really much lower and separated by a deep gap.  Neither was the ridge on which we were standing continuous with the main ridge of this subsidiary summit, it was broken by a gap from which glaciers fell steeply on each side.

We had a very good view of Phurbi Chyachumbu and of the rock outcrop on the intervening ridge above Base Camp which we hoped to reach in the next day or so and use instead of our previous “Heartache” station.  The weather was perfect, hardly the suggestion of a breeze and excellent visibility.  We completed the survey in comfort by 11 a.m.  before the first clouds began to form over the high summits and were back in camp by mid-day on softening snow.

A review of the food convinced us that there was no sensible alternative to a return to Base Camp tomorrow.  The recon­naissance towards the Langtang would have to wait until we could carry over food for a subsequent through journey.  In any case we had the survey to finish and with luck could bag the heartache station tomorrow—given an early start and good weather.

We left camp at 6.30 a.m.  on 15th May, and were setting up the plane table by 10.30 a.m.  on the httle rocky promontory which was so impressive a pinnacle when seen from Base Camp but quite unimposing from this side.  After a purgatorial slog from the glacier during which we had to resist all temptation to rest we enjoyed a rocky scramble which brought us to a smooth slab forming the top of our pinnacle and giving just enough room for the plane table.  Pemba had been unable to understand our haste and had caused some annoyance and delay by his re-roping technique when we came to the start of our rock climb.  Apparently what was a good enough knot for his waist loop on snow was nothing like good enough for rock.  Our Sherpas were nervous of rock climbs, these being largely I suppose outside their experience.  They climbed like monkeys but their technique left much to be desired and the rope was more of a liability than an insurance to the rest of the party.

One hour’s intensive effort and we had finished our observations just as the first clouds formed over the higher summits.  This was a wonderful eyrie with the Big White Peak and Dorje Lakpa to the north whilst inumerable ranges of hills stretched to the south.  We stayed a few minutes in the hot sunshine on the warm rocks admiring the view and marvelling at our good fortune to be amongst so many untrodden peaks.  The weather was indeed favouring us and Tallon was able to complete both Base East and West stations the following morning, 16th May, I felt lazy but did a few jobs around Base and took some publicity photographs.  The map was now complete to the stage reached before the fatal accident (except for Fox’s last station) and we had added the Dorje Lakpa station.  We had 12 peaks positioned on the map and with the panoramic photographs and sketches it should be possible to produce a creditable and reliable map of the area.

Carrying loads of between 45 and 50 lbs., this time mainly of food, we left Base Camp at the record early time of 5.45 a.m.  on 17th May.  The wisdom of this proved itself as we were at the Dorje Lakpa camp by 12 noon having been able to use crampons to our col and down to the perched block before the sun reached us.  Actually we were in sun after taking crampons off below the col, which dried off the rocks nicely.  Again the sun obliged us as we paused for our second breakfast at the perched block.  We had found an easier and safer way off the glacier on the Base Camp side on our last journey by using a snow tongue on the moraine and so avoiding the gully used on our first journey.

Our arrival at camp was followed by thunder and lightning: snow fell.  The storm continued throughout the afternoon though it eased off later and we were able to get away at 7 a.m.  the following morning 18 th May in the usual bright sunshine.  We were carrying food for a depot on the Langtang route and were at the col by 8 a.m., the snow was good for crampons and a short descending traverse brought us to a rib of snow which took us some 200 feet down the gully until it was possible to traverse right under the slabby rocks and so on to the level glacier which crossed our route having fallen in a series of ice falls from a gap on the Dorje Lakpa ridge.  The problem was either to leave our depot here and return across the traverse before avalanches became a danger or to push on further returning after the avalanche danger had passed.  We decided on the latter plan and pushed on slowly on softening snow until at 11 a.m.  we reached a small snow col at about 16,500 feet (according to our aneroids).  The world dropped suddenly away at our feet.  A steep snow gully led down for about 3,000 feet to a big and much receded glacier which seemed to cut back in a great curve into the Langtang itself.  There was thus no continuous high level route though a descent to the glacier at this point seemed possible.  We dumped our loads and reconnoitred a little for an easier way down to the glacier.  To the south of our col the snow slopes seemed to lead continuously to the moraines below.  The clouds were now down and we returned on our outward tracks in rapidly worsening snow.  By 3 p.m.  we were begging tea from Pemba.  We had had an interesting if slightly disappointing day and tomorrow we looked forward to meeting Spenceley in Base Camp if he had been able to keep to the proposed time table.  We hoped that time would permit a crossing to the Langtang glacier and perhaps a httle exploration with a return to Katmandu down the Balephi Gorge itself or over the Nauling Lekh.  All this was speculation and depended on what news Spenceley had for us.

It was sad to reflect at such times as these on the tragedy and misfortune that had so split our happy party.  After days of intense activity such as Tallon and I had just experienced the contrast between what should have been a happy reunion at Base Camp with all the party and the sad remnant of the Expedition was all the more poignant.  Misfortune breeds anxiety and we were greatly relieved after an arduous journey on new snow back to Base Camp on the following day — the 19th May — to find Spenceley with Murari and Pasang, just returned.  Spenceley said he had found the heat of the valleys trying and much hotter than on the approach march.  He had returned over the Nauling Lekh where it was somewhat cooler but he had made long marches and looked tired although quite fit.

They had brought with them Kami Lama—headman of Okhreni who had acted as guide over the Nauling Lekh route.  Nina Lama and a few other Tempathang men had also joined the party so Base Camp was quite a lively place once more.  A few hours later with the arrival of 14 porters from Okhreni who had been engaged to carry equipment back to Katmandu our camp was full to overflowing.  These men had by their own choice arrived a day earlier than required; they wished to see the high snows, they said.  I suspect the opportunity to inspect ourselves and belongings and to acquire any surplus items was a more immediate motive.  It snowed hard that afternoon so the high peaks were hidden and the Okhreni men, who seemed to withstand the cold less well than their Tempathang brethren, were a pathetic group huddling under our dining shelter singing mournfully to the feeble accompaniment of a mouth organ.  It snowed all night too and although we lent them as many spare clothes as we could muster they must have had a miserable night.  These Sherpa villagers are very self sufficient and independent and so far as our property was concerned scrupulously honest.  This however did not prevent them from being determined scroungers and in view of the difficulty we had in retrieving our clothing it appears that the word “lend” cannot be translated into Sherpa language.

Next day, 20th May, the snow fell intermittently and an Okhreni Sherpa clad in Tallon’s yellow anorak and a pair of snow goggles spent all day beating four small holes for the memorial plaque into a sheltering boulder near the tents.  Meanwhile we struggled to pack gear ready for tomorrow’s evacuation, 30 or so pairs of curious eyes watching our every move.  We were expected to supply our visitors with all sorts of delicacies such as notebooks, pencils, ball pens and indeed anything they fancied, and which we could persuade ourselves we were not justified in taking home.  The division of the surplus food nearly caused a civil war between the rival factions of Tempathang and Okhreni and not for the first time did we regret the presence of our uninvited guests from the former community.  However after endless discussions and the insertion of numerous codicils in the agreement an arrange­ment satisfactory to both parties was arrived at.  Peace reigned whilst the spoils were distributed.  My lasting memory of the incident is of two Okhreni men squatting down solemnly opening tins of porridge, pouring the contents on to the ground and gleefully bounding off with the invaluable empty tins.

Spenceley had made arrangements for the party to be back in Katmandu on the 29th and so there seemed httle hope of explora­tion in the Langtang or a descent of the Langtang Khola.  The unknown factors of such a trip called for more time than was available but much questioning of the Okhreni men and the few Tempathang men who had come with them revealed the existence of a route to yak pastures in the upper reaches of the Langtang Gorges.  These pastures were not far from a geogra­phical feature called The Three Lakes and the existence of a high level route between this latter point and the five holy lakes called Panch Pokari seemed to be in no doubt.  Panch Pokari was prominently marked on our otherwise vague maps which also gave the surprising information that an annual fair was held at this spot in July.  At any rate we could be confident of a well marked track from Panch Pokari taking us on to the Nauling Lekh route of Spenceley’s return march, Panch Pokari could also be reached from Tempathang and in fact it appeared that this was the route taken by the Tempathang men in reaching their grazing grounds in the upper Langtang.  We could obtain no information concerning a route up the gorge itself and were forced to the conclusion that the walls of the gorge were probably impassable and in any event the forest would be so thick in parts as to involve much expert and lengthy toil with the kukri.  The probability of danger from bears, leopards or other wild hfe was also a serious consideration.

In view of this information it was decided that Spenceley and I with Pemba Gyalgen should leave next day 21st May, re-occupy the Dorje Lakpa camp and then traverse the route pioneered by Tallon and myself, pick up the food depot, descend and cross the Langtang glacier and find the three lakes.  Two of the Okhreni men, Kami Lama’s son Pasang and his more stohd friend Noorbu volunteered to meet us at this latter point, travelling via Tempathang, in order to assist with the gear.  We arranged to meet them at the three lakes on the third day.  They would clearly have liked to have accompanied us all the way but had no mountaineering experience nor the necessary equipment.  As it was we had to equip them with basketball boots, warm clothes and sleeping bags and very proud they were of being chosen for this special task.  I must confess to certain feelings of doubt as to the advisability of arranging such a rendezvous in a spot none of us had ever seen and whose location from the many verbal descriptions we heard seemed to be of a very fluid nature.  However we were here largely for adventure and since the available information was so conflicting we could at least establish the truth and thus add a little more to the meagre knowledge existing about this remote corner of the world.

I was sorry that Tallon could not make this journey but some­one had to accompany the porters back to Katmandu, also we needed a survey station from a point on the Nauling Lekh.  He had done most of the work on the new survey and this was obviously his task.  Thus it was with many regrets that Spenceley and I said au revoir to Tallon on the morning of the 21st May and turned our backs on the remnants of Base Camp which was rapidly disappearing into coolie loads.  Soon there would be httle to show that this desolate spot had once been the centre of so many hopes and plans, of disappointments and tragedy.  But places have no memory.  The events which our farewell recalled as we climbed again to the col which Spenceley and I had first reached in the very early days of the Expedition are retained in our own memories and whilst sadness was the undertone of mood anti­cipation of a new adventure gradually replaced this.  Pemba too shared our feelings, he had been packing Lakpa Noorbu’s kit which he would take with him from Katmandu to Sola Khumbu and was obviously distressed as we climbed up to the col.

On reaching the col we bade farewell to Phurbi Chyachu before descending to the glacier.  In spite of this being my third visit to the Dorje, Lakpa camp it was made very enjoyable because of my Hght load.  Pemba staggered under a large load and was not slow in making comparisons with our small sacks.  Our pantomime expressing difficulty in lifting them from the ground did not convince him but brought the old grin back and our party was cheerful once more.

We reached the Dorje Lakpa camp about 2.30 p.m.  in a thick mist.  It was exceptionally mild and avalanches had thundered down for many hours past.  Next morning, 22nd May, our loads increased by the camping gear, we crossed the col following the route Tallon and I had previously taken.  A bear had also recently taken this route but in the reverse direction as its tracks in the soft snow showed.  It had followed our tracks over the col and approached within two hundred yards of our camp.  It is probable that it had arrived the previous afternoon after we had occupied the tents.  We considered ourselves fortunate not to have arrived to find the Goldilocks story reversed and a bear in our sleeping bags !

We saw many animal tracks in the snow during the course of the Expedition but had never made closer acquaintance with their originators.  Even the abominable snowman avoided us though Pemba pointed out some torn up shrubs which he claimed were Yeti food.  Pasang was our nearest approach to a Yeti; he claimed to have seen one face to face and I doubt if the two could have been separately identified.

The snow in the gully was less reliable than when Tallon and I had first descended owing to the milder weather and there were recent avalanche tracks across the traverse where none had been before.  However at that time of day we were safe enough and with a httle care on the sections of harder snow we soon traversed the steep parts; a steady plod brought us to the food depot which we reached about 11 a.m.

We descended 1,000 feet in crampons on steep snow and expected to be able to identify the three lakes—our rendezvous with the Ohkreni Sherpas—across the Langtang glacier which was now below us.  The clouds were again unusually early and visibility worsened as we sat on the top of a buttress outcropping from the snow.  I climbed the short distance to the top of the buttress and deposited a ” Madonna ” given to us for the purpose by an acquaintance in Katmandu.  What a wonderful vantage point the figure has commanding a view both up and down the great glacier and of the entrancing peaks on both sides of it.  Unfortunately this same view which was most necessary to us was denied as the clouds thickened around us until we were enshrouded in mist once more.  The rendezvous was timed for tomorrow and as we were within striking distance we elected to camp where we were.  We had crossed from the Jugal Himal to this glacier which would give access to the high regions of the Langtang but time did not permit further exploration.

The following morning, 23 rd May, exciting peaks surrounded us on all sides and looking across the glacier we could distinguish possible grazing grounds and the probable location of the three lakes.  The descent to the glacier was not without incident for as we cramponed down on steep snow Pemba over-balanced under his huge load and needed timely help to regain his feet.  A moraine of large ice-glazed blocks provided a frustrating skin barking route down the glacier until we picked up a faint track taking us across the glacier bed towards the grazing grounds in a most delightful valley with a clear stream bubbhng through it.  The track climbed and was lost in snow but in a short distance we came sure enough to three lakes, two of which were frozen and the third invisible under a covering of snow.  Our Okhreni men were nowhere to be seen.  Pemba’s frequent ear splitting calls served only to emphasise the vastness and loneliness of our surroundings and the vagueness of our arrangements for this rendezvous were once again brought home to us.

We had arranged to meet two men on the third day after leaving Base Camp at a place neither party had previously visited.  Neither party had a map of the area and our persistent attempts to convert the vaguely translated phrases of the Tempathang and Okhreni men into a rough sketch map had been a complete failure.  Our pencil hnes meant nothing to them although furrowed brows were evidence of a sincere attempt to understand the white man’s magic.  Murari had been his most exasperating self whilst these discussions were in progress the day before we left Base Camp.  Half a dozen Tempathang and Okhreni men were in the bungalow tent with Spenceley, Tallon, myself and Murari.  The doorway was filled with the grinning curious faces of many others Patiently we would phrase an unequivocal question such as, “Can we return down the Langtang Gorge?”  Murari would translate this question in a bored sort of way as if to humour us.  The sea of faces would register surprise, incredulity and finally sympathy.  Then the gazes became even more curious and I wondered if they were speculating on the fate of our possessions in the event of our successful suicide.  Murari was brief and a few minutes sufficed for a satisfactory translation of the question.  Everyone started talking at once and we settled back to watch the pantomime.  It was unbelievable that such a question could arouse so much excitement and we suspected that they had strayed from the point.  A diversion was caused when Talion’s cigarette hghter produced a flame which burned in mid-air about one inch from the nozzle.  Great amazement was shown and our question was forgotten until tins mysterious fire had been observed by everyone.  Indeed the more courageous wished to produce the effect for themselves and were dehghted to find that the magic worked for them also.  Tallon was repri­manded and the conversation steered back to more important matters.  Many minutes later Murari was prevailed upon to give a free translation.  The grandfather of an Okhreni man had once grazed yaks at a place called The Three Lakes.  Since the address of the man’s latest reincarnation was unknown we could pursue our queries no further.  Had we been so able I do not believe a more satisfactory answer would have evolved.  It seemed that knowledge of the Langtang Gorge was nil or was deliberately witheld, but the route to Panch Pokari was well known and a continuation to the Three Lakes was also spoken of with some confidence.

Realising the futility of further questioning we had decided to travel hopefully but had impressed upon Pemba the need to arrive at some more definite understanding with our two Okhreni men about the location of the three lakes and the means of reaching such a rendezvous in three days.

We at any rate felt confident that we had reached the rendezvouz but it was no thanks to Pemba who seemed to think that shouting frequently was the most suitable method of establishing contact with another person in a mountainous area approximate in size to that of the English Lake District.  We hoped that the Okhreni men had a more rehable system of navigation.

We had an excellent reason for resting in this delightful spot.  I relaxed in the warm sunshine, Pemba began to ” brew up ” whilst Spenceley climbed the snow slope beyond the lakes in the hope of seeing our missing porters and tracing the continuation of our route.  He saw nothing of the porters but thought he had found out how our track went on and over our mid-day meal we debated our next step.  In view of the amount of snow we felt that our Okhreni men might have found it impossible to reach the rendezvous.  We knew they were nervous of snow, they had no ice axe and their only footgear were the basketball boots with which we had provided them.  Loath though we were to carry our heavy loads any further we felt that valuable time might be lost if we were to spend the night here and we might be exposing our porters to danger on the snow covered tracks even supposing they could find their way to the three lakes.

Reluctantly therefore we shouldered our loads once again as the usual afternoon mist began to enshroud us.  The value of Spenceley’s timely reconnaissance was brought home to us for in spite of many anxious moments we had some idea of the topography and eventually came to a well marked ” highway.” We followed this thankfully until it too disappeared into a snowfield, and we spent an hour or more looking for its continua­tion without success, nearly losing each other and our loads, which we had put down.

We realised that until the mist cleared we were wasting valuable energy and would have camped but could find no suitable spot, and since we had lost the track a meeting with our porters was most unlikely.  A return to the three lakes was the only sensible procedure when better visibility tomorrow would enable us to solve the mystery of the disappearing track and perhaps find our missing porters.  We had no sooner taken this decision than Pemba returned from his latest scouting expedition full of enthusiasm at having found a track.  Closer questioning reyealed some doubts as to its being the track we had lost but it was unlikely that there was more than one track in the area so we decided to allow Pemba to demonstrate his find.  The ” track ” disintegrated before our eyes having led us up steepening grass slopes to the verge of a shallow snow filled gully.  We entered the gully and climbed on dubious snow for 100 feet until we emerged on to a more level section of the hillside.  We were well and truly lost but Pemba’s faith in his still oft repeated yells was undaunted.

We had just decided to camp where we were and I was un­packing the first tent when a faint shout answered Pemba’s yells.  Shouts soon echoed to and fro and seemed to be the only thing that penetrated the mist.  Pemba’s vocal radar guided us down the hillside we had just toiled up with so much effort and we found our porters at the spot where we had first found our ” highway about three hours previously.  Expressions of mutual joy were exchanged and food changed hands rapidly.  The loads of Spenceley and myself were reduced to more manageable propor­tions and it was a happy party that jogged along the track which no longer offered problems in route finding since the footprints of our porters had previously marked it across the frequent snow fields.  The path dropped steadily and we were soon below the mist; our conviction that it should chmb and not descend had been our undoing.  We came to a 200 foot cliff slightly overhang­ing a platform which had been levelled out at its foot.  The marks of many camp fires were evidence of its use as a resting place and our air beds and sleeping bags were soon in position whilst supper was prepared over a juniper wood fire.  This was for me the most memorable camp of the whole expedition.  I saw the peaks of the Jugal Himal flushed red in the setting sun.  I slept and woke to see the moon rise over the shoulder of Phurbi Chyachu; a full moon in a clear starry sky lent unearthly beauty to the Himalayan giants.  I woke again briefly to see the moon at its zenith and marvelled again at the good fortune which had brought me to that sanctuary.

Pemba was offering me tea in the still light of dawn, 24th May.  Another day’s march was ahead and what wonderful backward views we had as we followed a fascinating track from which we looked down into the deep gorges up which we had travelled on our approach march.  That afternoon we reached Panch Pokari: the five holy lakes which annually draw thousands of Hindu pilgrims to worship at the shrine built over the source of the Indrawatti.  These lakes, then still partly frozen over, are con­tained in a cirque of crags reminiscent of a Scottish Corrie.  A new-looking stone built shelter roofed with rough hand-trimmed planks stood near the shrine at which the Okhreni men paid their obeisances.  Out seclusion was interrupted by a group of Tamangs who approached from the opposite direction making a wonderful picture as they passed along the shores of one of the lakes, their reflection in its still waters emphasising the rhythm and grace of their movement.  Our Sherpas were a httle dis­comfited as, although the building would have accommodated at least fifty people, they apparently found the close proximity of the Tamangs uncongenial and elected to spend a crowded night in the httle mountain bivouac tent.

The following day, 25th May, we had a long but pleasant march joining the Nauling Lekh above Tempathang and camping in a clearing within an easy day’s march of Okhreni.

We met the Tempathang porters returning from carrying Lakpa to Katmandu; they had seen Tallon’s party who were one day ahead of us.  They were a merry crowd and we were delighted to have met them before they dropped down from the ridge to their village.  Our happy association with these wonder­ful people was now at an end.  Without their enthusiastic co-operation and help the Expedition would not have reached Base Camp and their patience and care in bringing Lakpa’s stretcher to Katmandu was a story which we heard later from Jones.  One could go far in “civilised” countries to find such reliable and trustworthy men and we were sorry to say goodbye to them.

Another chapter in the Expedition story was closed.  Indeed the next few days were ones of successive farewells.  We spent a night hi Okhreni at the house of our very good friend the village headman Kami Lama.  He of course was with Tallon at the time but that wonderful old lady — his wife — offered the hospitality of her home.  The fact that Spenceley and I preferred to sleep outside did not detract from this spirit of hospitality and I remember her standing in the doorway of her house in the morn­ing sunshine as she said goodbye to us the following day; her face, enclosed between two huge brass plate-like earrings, wrinkled by age and weather into a permanent smile.  She offered us chang and wild berries before we were permitted to take the downward track that led eventually in increasing heat to the banks of the Indrawatti.

We spent the afternoon hours bathing happily in a side pool — an offshoot of the main stream — Noorbu had been frankly terrified at crossing the main stream whereas I tlhnk Pasang had been equally frightened but showed it less.  Pemba overcame his own nervousness so as not to lose face before the others.  When it came to bathing the Sherpas were at first prepared only to wade into the pool and wash themselves but, confronted by the aquabatics of Spenceley and me, Pemba and finally Pasang ventured in deeper and made tentative attempts to swim.  Noorbu retained his traditional conservatism and put his thick sweater on again to maintain his prestige.  The sun had made the rocks bordering the pool too hot to stand on and shade or cool water seemed the only things in life worth having just then.  Despite this our Sherpas wore their woolly balaclavas and sweaters day and night although obviously suffering from the heat.

We moved on in the cool of early evening and slept on a terrace, prepared for an early start on the 2,000 feet chmb before the sun got to work.  We wanted to be at Sankhu by 10 a.m.  at which time the Embassy Land Rover was scheduled to meet us, and we were to catch up with Tallon.  A dusty ten miles walk to Katmandu from Sankhu in the heat of the day was not to be considered so we left out breakfast in order to make the initial steep ascent before the sun began its enervating work.  Spenceley had not slept much due to sickness and neither of us was feeling too well.  It was getting uncomfortably hot as we came down to Sankhu Pheidi at 9.30 a.m., but the next two miles along dusty level paths to Sankhu itself were soon completed.  Tallon was there with Murari and Pasang; the latter resplendent in a scarlet shirt, had belied his nickname of” sohd ” by hiring two porters to carry his gear for the latter part of the journey whilst the Okhreni porters had engaged a lorry in Sankhu to take themselves and loads to Katmandu.  The Sherpas liked the heat as little as we did.  Tallon also had been unwell for two days and we seemed a sorry party when Wilson, immaculate in clean shorts and shirt, arrived to collect us in the Embassy Land Rover, and we were soon ourselves enjoying the luxury of hot baths at the Embassy.