Climbs On Guise Cliff
by G. P. A. Scovell
Note.—The directions “right” and “left” apply when facing the rock. All place names and descriptions of approaches should be read in conjunction with the following maps:—
Sheet 91 “Ripon” of the Ordnance Survey New Popular Edition.
Sheet 26 “Harrogate” of the Ordnance Survey Popular Edition.
Guise cliff is the line of high gritstone crags extending for half a mile along the upper part of the escarpment culminating on Heyshaw Moor on the S.W. side of Nidderdale between Pateley Bridge and Summerbridge.
The Normal National Grid Reference is 44/167633.
The history of Guise Cliff as a climbing ground is obscure. As far as the writer knows the earliest visitors were E. T. W. Addyman and friends. In later years H. L. and F. W. Stembridge were visitors but they were not enamoured of the place. The cliff was then left alone and details of climbs done faded into obscurity.
In recent years since the war a small contingent of Y.R.C. men has been active at the cliff and after much down-to-earth work its value as a chmbing ground of great merit has at last been appreciated. Other visitors have included the York Mountaineering Club, and Royal Engineers Climbing Club from Ripon and small groups of independent chmbers.
Starting the description at the left hand end of the escarpment there are first a few low broken rocks. Next, situated by itself is No. 1 Buttress. Buttresses 2, 3, 4 and 5 follow in that order and are situated together on the same high stretch of cliff. The right wall of No. 5 Buttress goes sharply in towards the moor and tapers off at an internal corner into a Long Low Wall of rock which becomes slightly higher at its right hand end. Then comes a stretch of wooded hillside and two small blocks which are not illustrated in accompanying sketches. Finally, situated below the brow of the escarpment and in the woods, is the high North Buttress, below which is a large and easily identified square-cut boulder.
The main part of the cliff has been sketched and the routes numbered to correspond with the numbers of the climbs in the text.
The rock is mainly steep and in many places unreliable. As the climbs described are not yet necessarily free from unsound holds, all those used should be carefully tested. The rock does not dry quickly and on a humid day the lichen growing there retains a small amount of moisture and makes nailed boots the most convenient form of footwear.
Owing to the undeveloped nature of Guise Cliff there are many possibilities for the pioneer, particularly the one who revels in showering loose rocks, earth and vegetation on to the heads of those below.
Particular care should be taken not to tamper with the portions offence built at strategic places along the top of the cliff to restrict the wanderings of suicidal livestock, or the rightful and tempestuous indignation of the farmer will be invited. Apart from the usual unpleasant consequences of such an action the climbs would all have to be considerably upgraded for the occasion!
The easiest approach to Guise Cliff is along the path which traverses the full length of its crest from the prominent ruin of Yorke’s Folly at its right hand end. The easiest descents are at the right hand end between the end of the Long Wall and the N. Buttress and at the left hand end between Nos. 1 and 2 Buttresses or to the left of No. 1 Buttress.
As the distance between the right hand end of the Long Wall and the left hand end of No. 2 Buttress is considerable it is useful to know of the descents along this portion to prevent too much walking between climbs. These descents are included in the section describing the climbs. It is possible to abseil at many places along the Long Wall using one of the many trees as an anchor.
Another approach is through the village of Glasshouses immediately below the cliff in the dale. Take the first cart road on the left after crossing the Nidd. Follow it as it goes under the “I” of “Hollin Ho” on the map, until a gate is reached through which on the left is a wood and on the right a farm. Either go up the track in the wood on left for the left hand end of the cliff or go through the farmyard and bear up through the wood immediately on the left for the centre and right hand end of the cliff.
Although it is easy to walk up to the bases of Nos. 1, 2, 3, and the N. Buttress it is necessary to indulge in a grim struggle through a tangled mass of undergrowth and great boulders to any desired goal along the base of the rest of the crag.
To get a general idea of the layout of the crag it is best to view it well away from its base and best of all, at the seasons of the year when the trees are bare.
There is no drinking water at the crag itself but lower down in Guise Cliff wood are several tiny streams.
At the base of No. 2 Buttress are two old mine entrances which give excellent shelter in the event of bad weather. Penetration of these mines is rendered unsafe by rotten timbering.
The climbs described below are all those known to the writer as having been led, and the gradings have been decided in conjunction with other climbers.
The lengths of climbs given are the distances climbed through.
E. = Easy V.D. = Very difficult
M. = Moderate S. = Severe
D. = Difficult V.S. = Very severe
The writer gratefully thanks all of his friends who have rendered him such invaluable assistance in the gathering of information for this article.
The Sketches are by H. L. Stembridge.
No. 1 Buttress
1. — The Pulpit via Right Hand Chimney. V.D. 20 ft.
Climb the chimney first using holds to the left of its rear wall.
Then back up a few feet using holds for the feet and hands on the right wall. Continue up the left hand crack and finish with a comfortable pull on to the top of the pulpit.
It is inadvisable to follow the obvious route to the top of the crag from here. Its loose rock and rubble has already been the cause of a narrow escape by one party.
No. 2 Buttress
2. — Letter Box Climb. D. 63 ft.
The start is at the prominent chimney above the left of the two mine entrances.
(1) 24 ft. Climb the ridge formed by the junction of the right wall of the chimney and the main rock face to a large ledge of cave. Belay to block above ash tree.
(2) 25 ft. Climb mouth of cave to mantleshelf on right outer wall. Step across to the left wall and leave the cave mouth by climbing diagonally left on earthy holds to a large bilberry-covered shelf. That plant provided the necessary balance for the last move. Belay to tree.
(3) 14 ft. Shunning the easy escape to the right or left, climb the recess at the rear of the shelf and post yourself on to the moor through the letter box slot at the top of the pitch.
(1a) Alternative start. Rather easier.
Start in the corner to the right of the chimney and by means of large slot hold, swing across and up to the first large foothold on the ridge.
No. 3 Buttress
3. — Right Hand Wall. V.S. 36 ft.
This route starts above an earth step on the hillside half way along and against the right wall of the Buttress.
Start at bottom of wall on good holds which diminish in size until they are non-existant below a narrow mantleshelf. Gain this mantleshelf and traverse right to the pair of adjoining cracks. Climb these to the moor.b An alternative and easier start is at the left end of the mantleshelf and traverse right along it to the cracks.
4. — No. 3 Buttress Route. V.D. 76 ft.
This climb starts to the left of the trees growing out from the base of the buttress to the left of its highest part.
(1) 23 ft. Climb past the trees straight up to an earthy ledge. Either climb over the pinnacle above and to the right or traverse round it at mid-height to a recess. Belay over the top of the pinnacle.
(2) 23 ft. The Signal Lever pitch. So called because of an unstable flake of rock which used to adorn it.
Step off the top of the pinnacle into the crack on the left. There is a good incut hand hold to the left of the crack. Continue straight up ledge crack to ledge. Above the crack to its left is a terrific hold through which the whole forearm may be inserted. Owing to the lie of the strata this hold should be used with extreme care.
Traverse to the right under the overhang to a thread belay at the near side of a large block resting on the ledge.
(3) 30 ft. Climb the chimney at the L.H. end of the ledge to a tree belay at its top.
(2a) 17 ft. As an alternative to pitch (2). Climb directly up from the recess to the ledge. There is a useful hold in the vertical crack below the ledge.
(1a) S. As an alternative to pitch (1). Climb directly from the lowest part of the buttress to the recess at the bottom of pitch 2.
No. 4 Buttress
5. — Roc’s Nest Chimney. S. 80 ft.
Situated prominently on the nose of the buttress.
(1) 40 ft. Gain the bottom of the chimney by traversing under the overhang to its left with much difficulty. Chmb it inside and leave it at its top to the right. Belay round the corner.
(2) 20 ft. Traverse right to a greasy ledge.
(3) 20 ft. Continue up gully on to moor.
No. 5 Buttress
6. — Shoulder Gully. V.D. 85 ft.
A very dirty (not the grade) ascent immediately to the left of large overhangs on the centre of the left wall of the buttress.
(1) 15 ft. Chmb crack in wall directly beneath overhang to belay at tree on ledge.
(2) Walk 20 ft. to left along ledge.
(3) 35 ft. CHmb the chimney to the ledge on the left and traverse out to the left round a block. Then climb back on bilberry holds to a tree belay at the top of the chimney.
(4) 15 ft. Scramble through the tree to a small earthy ledge and climb the short gully direct to the moor.
7. — Boundary Chimney. V.D. 50 ft.
A few feet to the right of the wire fence beneath the nose of the buttress.
Climb overhanging chimney to cave on ledge which runs from base of the next climb horizontally to nose of the buttress. There is a good stance and a tree belay 4 ft. above to the right.
The natural continuation of this climb is straight up the chimney to the right of the nose of the buttress and has only been climbed with a top rope.
8. — Apparition. D. 60 ft.
On the right wall of the buttress. The dirty looking chimney with a tree growing down from its top.
(1) 35 ft. Climb the chimney over the tree to a large recess with a belay on the left.
(2) 25 ft. Climb the continuation of the chimney and emerge on to the moor either by going under the overhang to the left or by finishing the chimney itself.
The Long Wall
9. — Scissors. M. 40 ft.
In the angle where No. 5 Buttress meets the Long Wall. A convenient descent route.
Scramble up to a platform at the mouth of a large cave. Climb the jammed rock in the corner to the moor.
10. — Milroy’s Climb. V.S. 40 ft.
The rock is extremely loose and unreliable. Start at the same place as the Scissors and having reached the foot of a very slimy crack, continue up it to the moor.
11. — Shelter Chmb. D. 50 ft.
Beneath a large overhang to the right of a bilberry topped block standing prominently away from the base of the Wall.
(1) 25 ft. Climb the left side of the wall to a ledge under the overhang. Traverse to the right to a large block resting on the ledge and a flake belay above.
(2) 25 ft. Traverse round the corner using large holds on the shelf below the overhang to a small ledge. Finish up the gully ahead.
The moor may be easily gained by starting at the bottom of the Shelter chmb and working diagonally upwards to the left. This is a useful means of descent.
12. — Ledge and Crack. D. 47 ft.
To the right of a narrow gap between a huge detached block and the Wall.
(1) 33 ft. Chmb the crack on good holds to a large ledge on the left.
(2) 14 ft. Continue up the crack to the right of an overhang to an excellent finish.
13. —Short pitch. V.D. 15 ft.
A few yards to the right of the ledge and crack.
Climb straight up from the centre of the base of the wall and traverse horizontally to the right to a large bilberry-covered platform.
14. —(LONG WALL)
Aiguille des Moutons. V.D. 15 ft.
A squat pinnacle the top of which is level with the moor. It is near the right end of the Long Wall and at the left end of its highest part. Do not approach this climb through the natural tunnel from the moor as this entails moving a fence, but scramble up from the base of the cliff by the slope on the right.
Climb the pinnacle by the side nearest to the main cliff.
15. — Intestine. Technically M. Severe on the nerves. 40 ft. Below the Aiguille des Moutons to its left.
Climb the loose subterranean chimney and emerge on to a ledge of matted branches below the pinnacle. Quickly gain the ledge behind the pinnacle.
16. — Fireplace Chimney. V.D. 15 ft.
Climb from the tunnel behind the Aiguille des Moutons on to the moor.
The Left Block between the Long Wall and North Buttress
17. — The Chimney. D. 30 ft.
The entry is not easy but after a lodgement has been effected, climb easily to the top.
The North Buttress
18. — Thin Man’s Delight. V.D. 40 ft.
The overhanging crack to the left of the holly tree at the left hand end of the buttress.
(1) 20 ft. With much difficulty and expenditure of energy enter the crack and chmb it to ledge on the right.
(2) 20 ft. Continue up the crack to some loose rocks below an overhang. Traverse under the overhang to the right to a gap below a pinnacle. Climb easily to the top of the North Buttress Pinnacle.
19. — North Buttress Pinnacle, Ordinary Route. D. 40 ft.
A large holly tree grows from the top of the first pitch.
(1) 20 ft. Traverse from right to left along the base of the mossy slab into the wide crack. Climb the crack and scramble round the holly tree to a large recess.
(2) 20 ft. Climb the crack on the left of the recess to the gap and continue easily to the top of the pinnacle.
Boulders
There are boulder problems galore at Guise Cliff of which three excellent examples are described.
There is a well scratched warming up boulder on the track below No. 1 Buttress.
A large square cut boulder with two routes on its south-west corner and many other problems as yet unsolved lies a few yards below the North Buttress.
Beneath Yorke’s Folly and near the road is a large cubical block with a fine problem on its west face.