Kindred Journals

The Alpine Journal.

No. 196: Mr. A. M. Kellas has a long and informing article on Northern Sikkim and Gahrwal, with an account of several first ascents and some interesting notes on mountain sickness. He pays a high tribute to the mountaineering qualities of his native guides. Mr. Yeld discourses pleasantly of his favourite Graians; Dr. Mario Piacenza’s (translated) story of the first ascent of the Matterhorn by the Furggen Ridge displays the romantic spirit of worship and daring that our Italian friends bring to the conquest of their glorious mountains; Mr. Hutton writes feelingly of a night out on the Hinter-Sustenhorn; and Dr. Cockburn breaks new ground in a helpful paper on “Indoor Training for Mountaineers.”

No. 197: deals with Mt. Blanc in its sternest aspect, and the papers on “Two Ridges of the Grandes Jorasses” (G. Winthrop Young), “Mont Blanc and the Grépon in 1911” (the late H. O. Jones), “The Col de la Brenva” (Dr. Claude Wilson), and “Mont Blanc by the Brenva and other Traverses in 1911” (W. R. Cæsar) breathe the heroic strain and attain surely the high-water mark of climbing achievement. Mr. Larden’s paper, “Some House-Inscriptions from the Upper Lotschenthal” opens a new field for observation below the snow-line, and the translation of extracts from M. Merkuloff’s Guide to the Caucasus draws attention to that district, now so neglected by English climbers.

No. 198: has a racy article by Mr. Broome on the Nord End from Macugnaga and a delightful account by Prof J. H. Clapham of a three weeks’ Alpine ramble in 1911. Mr. Wheeler contributes a long article, with map, on the Mountains of the Yellowhead Pass, and there are several articles on Himalayan climbs, including some rollicking letters by Capt. Todd to his uncle, W. C. Slingsby, and a note by Mr. Meade on the Gahrwal peaks, with fine photographs of the country described by Mr. Morris Slingsby in this issue.

No. 199: is compounded of light and gloom, the former in cheerful articles by Dr. Inglis Clark on some unfrequented valleys in the Brenta and other Districts (with coloured photographs), by Mr. Irving on Mont Herbetet and other expeditions near Cogne, and by W. C. Slingsby on Monte Cairo and other ridges in the Abruzzi and Apennines; the latter in Mr. Young’s article on “La Pointe Isolée of Les Dames Anglaises” with an account of the fatal accident to Mr. and Mrs. H. O. Jones and the “In Memoriam” notices on the late Sir Alfred Wills, H. A. Morgan, C. T. Dent, R. Gaskell, M. Archer Thomson, H. O. Jones and others. A new feature is the reproduction of some of the photographs shown at the Annual Show in December.

There are also the usual records of New Expeditions, Alpine Bibliography, Accidents, Reviews and Club Proceedings.

The Journal Of The Fell And Rock Climbing Club.

(No. 6.)

We have to congratulate the Editor on another successful number, full of interest to Lakeland lovers. There are a few articles dealing with other districts – the Peak of Teneriffe (G. E. T. Thorpe), the Jöstedalsbrae (Victor H. Gatty), the Vorarlberg (A. E. Field), and North Wales (J. Laycock), all of interest; but, in other respects, the local colour is maintained with a success which only those who edit similar journals can appreciate. Mr. Colin Phillip writes with artistic insight of Lakeland Tarns, and W. C. Slingsby, with his wonted enthusiasm, of that memorable wind of the 5th November, 1911; the Editor gives us a graphic description of the Martindale Deer Forest, and warns the unvigilant rambler of the dangers of a stray bullet – a tempting theme to enlarge upon, but we refrain; Mr. Cowlishaw gives his experiences – with novices – of that most unsatisfactory Easter of 1911 at Wasdale; and Mr. Hanks writes pleasantly of the Rock Climbers’ Birds. Deer Bield Chimney and Blea Rigg, two new climbs near Grasmere, are described, and there are useful notes on climbs new and old, including a descent of Eagle’s Nest aréte, by Messrs. W. B. Brunskill and S. W. Herford. The last-named has also an article on the Traverse of Scafell Crags, which, with another by him and Mr. G. S. Sansom, on The Climbs on Scafell Pinnacle, are the last words surely in English rock climbing. Anyone who knows the north side of Scafell will appreciate the skill shewn in overcoming the difficulties of the climb described and, may we add, the courage of the Editor in allowing of their description. The writers are, of course, brilliant climbers, and the distinction they draw between the terms “difficult” and “dangerous,” as applied to rock-climbing, is logically sound, but sad experience has shewn that it is not always possible to fix limits to the former term until too late, and when we are told of climbs where ‘boots should be taken off`,’ and which are ‘undeniably best tackled alone,’ those limits have surely been overstepped. But it is only fair to say that the difficulties are set out very plainly, and we can only hope they will be realized by all readers. It is interesting to note that in the opinion of the whole party Botterill’s Slab “stands, as far as difficulty is concerned, in a class by itself.”

There is an interesting account by Mr. Haskett Smith of the accident on Mickledore in 1884, and the usual club news. Nor must we omit the splendid photographs, local and Alpine.

The Rucksack Club Journal.

(Nos. 6 and 7).

The contents of these two issues illustrate the difficulty experienced by editors of this kind of journal in finding material for their pages if confined to British climbing. The only articles in No. 6 dealing with that subject are a short one by Mr. Pearson on a rare plant called Scapania Nimbosa, one entitled “A Defence of Plynlimon,” by Mr. Pickstone and a truthful description, as we can vouch from personal experience, of the great wind at Coniston on the 5th November, 1911. The remaining papers, all interesting, deal with the Canadian Rockies (C. F. Pilkington), China (J. A. Jackson), some Excursions in the Alps in 1911 (P. S. Minor) and a Night-out on the Aletschhorn (S. F. Jeffcoat).

In No. 7 the Editor has been more successful. Dr. Baker summarizes some recent cave-work in Somerset and Ireland, Mr. Corbett describes the climbing on Bodlyn Crag near Dolgelley and Mr. Jeffcoat that on Hen Cloud and the Roches near Leek, both with excellent photographs. Mr. Wyldbore Writes amusingly of the fitting up of the Club Hut at Cwm Eigian in North Wales, a most interesting experiment. Mr. Ashley has an article on Glengariff and Mr. Jackson furnishes a characteristic account by the late T. W. Robinson of two early climbs in Scafell Pinnacle by Slingsby’s Chimney, and Mr. Hobbins a cheerful story about camping out in Langdale. There are also articles on the Vosges (A. E. Barker), the Lötschenthal (B.B.R.) and Alpine Wanderings in 1912 (J. Wilding).

The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal.

(Nos. 68-70.)

It is a standing wonder to editors of similar journals how this one contrives to find sufficient for its pages, three a year, without going outside Scotland. Scotsmen, of course, would say the explanation is simple: the infinite variety of Scotland! The late Editor, Mr. Wm. Douglas and his wife, tell the story of the Islands of Loch Awe, full of romance and poetic feeling. Half-hours in the Club Library (Mr. Gillon and Mr. H Alexander, junr.) deal pleasantly with travellers’ tales in Scotland a century ago, and we gladly agree with the reviewer when he says, speaking of the closing of inns in the interest of sport: “It might be a good thing for the Highlands to-day if there were Government Commissioners to build roads and establish rest houses.” Mr. Harold Raeburn tells of a climb on the Brack in Glencroe, and there are other good stories about Ardgour, Bidein Druim nan Ramh in Skye, Torridoun, Aonach Eagach, Braeriach and South Uist. The Club has always made a great feature of its Meets and the description of them leaves a pleasant impression of good fellowship in the worst of weather.

The Cairngorm Club Journal.

(Nos. 37-9.)

With the exception of articles in the Black Forest (A. L. Thompson) and the Colorado Rockies (R. Anderson) this journal also finds sufficient matter within its own borders, and we have interesting articles on the Cairngorms (A. Copland), Lochnagar (Seton Gordon), Sligachan (J. R. Levack), Glen Cova and Glen Doll (H. G. Drummond), the Tinto Hills (A. J. M’Connochie) and others, all interesting, and a practical account on Map Reading (P.A.C.). The Excursion and Notes are very interesting, especially those in the Cairngorm country, and the remarks on the closing of the Shiel Inn, at the head of Loch Duich, and the Passing of the Deer Forest are indications of changes which may have far-reaching results for the tourist and mountaineer.

The Alpine Ski Club Annual.

(No. 5.)

This number contains an excellent article by Mr. W. Rickmer Rickmers on the Avalanche, full of cautionary advice which is summed up in the phrase: “It is never quite safe to pat a tiger on the back, although he may be in a good humour.” Mr. Arnold Lunn tells of adventures on the Forno Glacier in bad weather and on the Eiger in worse, with a good day on the Gspaltenhorn by way of reward, all with the guide Crettez. The articles on the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn (Edw. Tennant), the Grand St. Bernard and Combe de La (the Hon. E. C. Pery) and Ski-ing in Derbyshire (A. H. Daukes) are all interesting and Mr. Walter Larden gives some useful hints to middle-aged ski-runners. The Reviews are good and the notes on the runs at Mürren, Gstaad and some Norwegian and Swedish centres most useful.

The Year Book Of The Ski Club Of Great Britain And The National Ski Union.

(No. 8.)

With its splendid photographs, useful tips and dodges, season’s report on the various centres and accounts of expeditions in many countries, this annual is calculated to rouse the envy of those Ramblers, the majority unfortunately, who are chained to the oar at home, and they must try to console themselves with the impression which the descent of Gaping Ghyll appears to have made on Messrs. Swan and H. Archer Thomson, who describe it as “an adventure full of romance and not without its thrilling episodes.” There is a good map of Scotland showing the best ski-ing ground, and a description of how to obtain the best sport there.

Perhaps the most interesting part of its contents, from an historical point of view, is an account of the origin of the newly founded National Ski Association and its rival, the British Ski Association. Even a summary would occupy too much space, and we can only state here that the N. S. A. is a self-governing non-proprietary members’ club, open to both sexes, without ski-ing qualification and in close touch with its parent, the S. C. of G. B., which requires some such qualification. Our ex-president (Lewis Moore) is the Club’s representative on the Council.

Ski-ing.

(No. 1.)

This, the organ of the newly founded British Ski Association, sets out the aims and origin of that body, and explains, none too gently, its quarrel with the S. C. of G. B. and the latter’s offspring, the National Ski Union. Mr. C Caulfield has an illuminating article concerning Tests, in which he explains that a ski-runner is-

Third-rate when (and only when) he can ski safely.
Second-rate when (and only when) he can ski safely and easily.
First-rate when (and only when) he can ski safely, easily and fast.

Mr. Arnold Lunn breaks new ground in an article on Midsummer ski-ing on the Aletsch Glacier; Mr. Delalp, has a good deal to say about jumping and Mr. Chute Collum recommends Japan for ski-ing.

The Winter Sports Review.

(Vol. I. Nos. 3 and 4. Vol. II, Nos. 1-3.)

“Always merry and bright” from its charming outside cover, to its Answers to Correspondents, might well be the motto of this little quarterly, and no one who wishes to be quite up to date in the world of ski-ing, skating or winter sport generally should fail to get it. Its frontispiece sketches of celebrities are excellent and its ” tips” and words of advice invaluable.

The Scottish Ski Club Magazine.

(No. 5.)

A short but amusing article, “The Paths of a Backslider” (H. MacRobert), and good stories on ski-running at Ballater (J. A. Parker), in Norway, and in the Ochils (J. W. Gregory) are the chief items. The Club Notes show the club to be alert for every chance of ski-running afforded by our unstable climate.

The Annual Of The Mountain Club Of South Africa.

(No. 15.)

We have not space even to enumerate the varied contents of this interesting journal, but we welcome its fifteenth annual appearance as evidence that the true mountaineering spirit of fun and good fellowship has been so successfully transplanted to “The home of the floods and thunders.” Of glaciers and snowfields there are none, but the rock-climber has full scope, and usually in good weather, a contrast to that which the writer of the only foreign article found in Skye. “We took comfort,” he says, “in reflecting, on what the average European climber would accomplish in a week if set down at say Sand Hills Siding, or even near Table Mountain, with the conditions we encountered in Skye.”

The Climbers’ Club Journal.

(1913)

Mr. Pigou writes amusingly of some climbs among the Horungtinder and Mr. Steeple carefully of some new and difficult work in the Cuillins; Mr. Winder sends notes on underground exploration in the Manifold Valley and Mr. O’Brien hints somewhat vaguely at good climbing in Ireland. The more strictly literary note is sustained by articles on “The Early Victorian Attitude” (H. V. Reade), “A Climbing Alphabet” (N. T. Huxley), “Concerning the Admission of Hill Walkers” (C. E. Benson), “In Defence of Popular Writing” (Arnold Lunn) and a reply thereto by Mr. C. Myles Mathews.

There is also a pathetic account of the search for the late H. R. Pope, who was killed on the Pic du Midi d’Ossau in the Pyrenees, almost certainly by a fall of rock, when climbing alone, and extremely good obituary notices of that climber and of the late J. M. Archer Thomson and H. O. Jones.