Gaping Ghyll Hole:
A Visit For Surveying
By J. H. Buckley.
I have been requested to furnish a short account of a week-end visit by a small party on July 28-29, 1906, which was organised at short notice in the hope of accomplishing, at all events, some portion of the survey of the extensive system of new passages mentioned by Mr. Horn in the preceding paper.
Many keen followers of the sport being away on holidays, we were only able to muster nine men: Messrs. Booth, Botterill, Chadwick, Constantine, Cuttriss, Hastings, Horsell, Williamson, and the writer.
Owing to the uncertain state of the weather, the few days previous to our visit were a somewhat anxious time for the organisers. Telegrams and letters came at frequent intervals reporting on that,-to us- vital point, the amount of water coming down Fell Beck.
By Thursday it appeared that we had at any rate a sporting chance; the members of the party were hastily notified, and an advance party of one-the writer- was despatched on Friday afternoon with the usual mass of equipment, food, and other necessaries for the internal and external comfort of the party.
Arrived at Clapham, the tackle was conveyed to Clapdale Farm, and from there by sledge to the Hole, piloted through a dense mist by our staunch adherent and good friend Mr. Metcalfe of Clapdale; with his cheery help our little tent was soon erected, a peat fire made, water boiled, and all made “shipshape and Bristol fashion”
A frugal meal eaten, I turned in, and after a refreshing sleep awoke next morning bright and early to find the weather all that we could have desired.
The next man arrived at camp on Saturday afternoon about half-past two, followed at intervals by the rest of the party. We soon were engaged in the now familiar occupation of preparing the ladders for the descent, and by six o’clock were able to start our first man, Booth, on his journey. Arrived at the Ledge, he was quickly joined by Botterill. Their first task was the disentangling of the confused heap of ladders which had lodged there. These had to be turned over rung by rung until the end was found; only then was it possible to lower them again. Foot by foot they were paid out, the muscular strain increasing as the length grew, until the Ledge was cleared and the middle released, when the whole 350 feet of ladder straightened itself with a jerk.
Booth then continued his descent, carrying a rucksack containing the telephone instrument and a supply of candles. After his departure Botterill remained for some time upon the Ledge, to forward the whistle signals between top and bottom until the telephone wire was lowered and connected. Williamson next descended to the bottom, and was followed by Hastings, who relieved Botterill on the Ledge.
The Ledge, 190 feet below the surface, is about 8 feet broad by 16 feet long, its long axis sloping gradually towards its edge. The middle of this space is largely occupied by a pool of water deepening at the centre to about 8 inches. The safest and most comfortable position upon it is a recumbent one in a cleft on the left side looking outwards. On this restricted space both men spent some time in complete darkness, wetted by the spray of the falling water and with only the companionship of their fellows for the few brief minutes when a man rested there on the journey down.
It is, however, sometimes necessary from various causes to station a man at this point. To remain in such a situation for any length of time is a task far from enviable, but the good potholer is willing to stay in any position, however uncomfortable, where his services are required.
It was now quite dark even at the top of the Hole and the operations of the party working there were perforce conducted mainly by sense of touch, inadequately aided by the light of a few candles stuck in the ground here and there; fortunately the night was calm or our difficulties would have been increased. By half-past eleven the last man reached the bottom, and it was after midnight before the baggage was safely lowered down the direct shaft.
The telephone connecting the surveying party with the upper world, which had been placed temporarily by the side of the men in charge of the safety-line, was moved into the writer’s tent, a long-overdue supper was quickly prepared, as quickly despatched, and peace soon reigned supreme.
Down below, it was proposed that Cuttriss and Hastings should survey from the Main Chamber to the junction and that Botterill and Williamson should begin their measurements at the junction and continue along the S.E. passage. Booth went with the latter men to lead the way, as he was the only member of the party who had previously been over the ground.
The entrance to these passages is some 30 feet above the floor of the Main Chamber and immediately on entering there is a descent of 10 feet by a short slope. The passage then continues fairly level until a rise of 4 feet is made on entering through the ‘Portcullis’ into what might well be called the ‘Pool Chamber’ ; at one end of this is a pool of still water, which has been waded through for some 40 feet, when it becomes too narrow for further progress. The 4 feet rise is neutralised by an easy slope leading downwards to the Junction, which is about 20 feet above the level of the Main Chamber and distant from it 207 yards. From this point the passage continues almost level until, at an abrupt turn to the left, a rise of some I2 feet in a distance of 40 feet is encountered. After scrambling over a boulder, a small chamber is entered from which at first sight there appears to be no exit. Some chalk marks made at Whitsuntide, 1906, direct attention to a low passage which slopes downwards some 5 feet but again rises 20 feet as the ‘pothole’ is entered. This entrance is about 47 feet above the floor of the Main Chamber.
Descending a steep slope of mud for about 24 feet bare rock is reached, which may easily be climbed down for another 20 feet to a point 416 yards from the Main Chamber and some 3 feet above its floor level.
Booth put on the rope and climbed about 20 feet further down a steep water channel and reported that below the sides became vertical. He estimated the depth, by dropping stones, to be an additional 60 feet.
As this was a surveying party only, no further attempt was made to explore the pot-hole, this being left for a future expedition. It is hoped that the exploration of the new passages, which must exist to carry the water from the bottom of the pot-hole, will lead to further discoveries.
If the figures given prove correct the depth (422 feet from the surface) that will be attained by the descent of this pot-hole will be the lowest level yet reached in the exploration of Gaping Ghyll.
Skirting the slope above the shaft the party went forward, still to the S.E., the last I0 feet being a steep ascent over clay and boulders. The passage then entered is about four feet wide, evidently a continuation of the rift of the pot, and is partially floored by clay and boulders. Earth and stones dislodged by the party fell through a gap in the floor into the depths beneath. Special care should be exercised when passing this point, as there is little doubt that the whole floor is unstable. From here, surveying was continued for 200 yards, and the party passed through a number of large and lofty chambers containing numerous fine stalactites, until, 624 yards from the Main Chamber, a small chamber whose floor was covered with deposits of stalagmite was reached from which they could find no exit. The surveyors had ascended steadily but surely after passing the pot-hole. All passages hereabouts have at one time carried large streams to the pot-hole, which enhances its possible value as the starting point of new explorations. A reference to the plan will give a better idea of the places passed than can be conveyed in words.
On returning, this party rejoined Cuttriss and Hastings, who after finishing their allotted survey had followed them as far as the pot-hole. Leaving a rope and box of candles the united party retraced their steps to the Main Chamber, to find, instead of the dim candle light left there, the weird grey light of dawn stealing into the great cavern.
At half past five the writer was awakened from his peaceful slumbers by the tinkle of the telephone bell, and Cuttris’s voice announced the party’s safe return from their all night wanderings. I quickly roused the other sleepers, and the first man was soon on his way up from below, but it was not until after mid-day that the ladders were hauled out and all was cleared.
The survey shows that the furthest pointy reached 624 yards from the Main Chamber is under the E. side of the dry valley which continues upwards from the top of Trow Gill. The pot-hole 416 yards from the Main Chamber is in the neighbourhood of the dry surface pot shewn on the Six-inch Ordnance Survey Map and numbered P4 in Dr. Dwerryhouse’s Map.[1]
As the chronicler of the work accomplished by this expedition, I am indebted for the account of the happenings below-ground to those members of the party who shared them. My appointed task on the surface precluded me from going below on this occasion and enabled me to requite in some measure those self-denying men who have so ably and cheerfully controlled my descent and accelerated my ascent during other expeditions.