Savage Gully, Pillar Rock

THE third ascent of this Gully was made on the 5th June last by Messrs. F. Botterill, H. Williamson and J.E. Grant.

As Mr J.L. Oppenheimer states in the Climbers’ Club Journal, Vol IV., p. 168 – it was found necessary to traverse the narrow rib of rock frequently. When the leader was 90 feet up, a large rock weighing roughly about 5 cwts. threatened to topple over when touched, and to bring with it a similarly sized rock underneath. The leader pushed it back and scrambled over it on to the ledge mentioned in Mr. Oppenheimer’s account.

After consultation it was decided that Williamson should ascend and Grant, being last man, should send down the dangerous blocks. This was done, Grant being held on the rope during operations. The two blocks thundered down to the foot of the North Climb and rattled down the screes below.

The removal of these blocks will, we think, render the climb a little more difficult, but gives a distinct advantage, as the leader may rest at 90 feet instead of 110 feet as formerly. The time taken was about 2 3/4 hours, in favourable conditions of weather.

F.B